Transmission Removal ('67 and earlier bus)
by Mike Gensler
Anyone out there wanting to remove a tranny from
a split-windowed bus? I just did and it wasn't too bad. A manual
would have helped a lot (Muir's and Beetle manuals don't cover the
redux boxes) and I couldn't have done it without the help of some
individuals on the Type2 list. If I had known what to do ahead of
time instead of figuring it out as I went, the total time involved
would have been 3-4 hours. Not a trivial task, but do-able in an
afternoon or evening.
Preparation:
- Your engine is already removed!
- Put the bus somewhere where it can sit until
you put the tranny back in because it ain't gonna have any rear
wheels or hubs on it when you're done. Read that last sentence
again!!
- If you don't want to clean up a lot of greasy
gunk off you driveway, tape some newspaper in place under each of
the rear wheels and under the rear tranny mount.
Tools needed:
- 27mm socket or box-end wrench.
- Tool to fit your axle nut (mine was 46mm, but
some are 36mm I think) - I got one of those that you beat on with a
sledge hammer. Cheap and it worked like a charm.
- A circlip pliers (needs to be a sturdy
one).
- A gear puller.
- Floor jack and good jack stands.
- 17mm allen wrench to drain the tranny and redux
boxes.
- Drain pan for tranny fluid.
- Drain bucket for brake fluid - don't put it in
with your motor oil because they can't recycle it if you
do.
- The usual assortment of wrenches, sockets
(specifically, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19mm).
- The usual assortment of screwdrivers, pliers,
hammers, and breaker bars.
- WD-40 (how could you NOT use some of this
stuff?).
- Plenty of rags because this baby's gonna be
greasy.
Go to it:
BEFORE jacking up the bus:
- Remove the tranny oil drain plug(s) (17mm
allen) and drain the oil into a suitable container and replace the
plug.
- Remove each of the redux box oil drain plugs
and do the same.
- Loosen , but do not remove the rear hub nuts.
These are big 'ol muthers and can be a little snug
sometimes.
- Go inside your empty engine compartment and
loosen but do not remove the 2 27mm bolts that hold the rear tranny
carrier in place. DON'T remove them yet!
- Remove the clutch cable - its looking you right
in the left eye if you're still in your engine
compartment.
- If you've got a backup light switch on your
tranny, unhook the wires from it - I'm not sure about this one
because my 58 doesn't have one. - remove the starter if its still
there. You'll have already removed the upper mounting bolt when you
removed your engine so you only need to remove the lower (13mm?)
nut and any wires that are attached to it.
- Slide underneath and remove the 2 15mm (maybe
17mm?) nuts from the front tranny mount and make sure the ground
strap is free from the bolt or else you'll tear it when you pull
out the tranny. If you like getting greasy sh*t in your eyes, don't
were any goggles when you're underneath, looking up.
- Remove the safetywire from the rear-most bolt
of the shifter coupling and back the bolt out until you can work
the coupler free from the shifter-shaft.
- Loosen all the lugs on both rear
wheels.
Time to jack up the bus:
- Jack the back of the bus up and put it on jack
stands or whatever you like to use, but make it SAFE because you're
gonna be underneath it banging around on things.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- Remove the hub nuts (that you already loosened,
right?) and hubs - you may need to back off the brake adjusting
stars to get the hubs off - depends on how diligent you've been in
keeping your rear brakes adjusted.
- Remove the parking brake cables. I removed the
adjusting nuts (2 10mm on each) up at the front under the handbrake
lever so I could just pull the cables through to the back of the
bus. That's how Muir says to do it.
- Take off the brake fluid reservoir cap and put
a plastic baggy on the opening then put the cap back on tight. This
will form a suction and not allow all your brake fluid to run out
when you open the lines.
- Remove the metal brake line where it goes into
the brake backing plate (11mm open-end wrench). Be sure and have
your brake fluid bucket ready to catch whatever drips out. If you
did the previous step, there won't be more than an ounce or
so.
- Remove the "U" clip that holds the brake line
to the axle tube (and pry the brake line out of the bracket if you
need to). Some WD-40 always makes these things easier.
- Remove the lower shock absorber mounting nut
(17mm?) and drive the bolt out so the shock is hanging there from
the upper mount only (use lots-o WD-40 here)
- Remove the bolts (4 per side) that hold the
redux boxes to the spring plate. Look at the spring plates from the
engine compartment and you'll see them, 3 in a vertical row towards
the rear and 1 off by itself about 2 inches to the front of the
others. These should be 19mm, but I had a few odd sizes on mine. A
few of these were pretty tight!
OK, ready to pull the whole thing
out?
Make sure there's nothing attached anywhere on
the tranny, axle tubes, brake plates (except for the e-brake cables
which are already pulled out of their tubes), and redux
boxes.
- If you've got any friends left, now would be a
great time to have a few around to help balance this thing as it
comes out. Those redux boxes are pretty heavy and the whole
assembly is gonna look kind of like a Klingon Bird-of-Prey from
Star Trek. Not to mention the fact that its 18 inches up in the
air.
- Put your floor jack underneath the tranny (with
a block of wood between the jack and the tranny) and jack it up
just a tiny, tiny bit to relieve the pressure on it. You'll want it
to be underneath the rear-most drain plug, to the rear of the
frame. If you put it in front (front is front) of the frame, you
won't be able to roll the thing out. Besides, it balances pretty
damn well with it right under the rear-most drain plug.
- Remove the two 27mm bolts that hold the carrier
to the frame.
- Carefully pull the whole thing clear of the
bus. I slid a cinder block (about 6" high) under the front (front
is front!) of the tranny so when I lowered my floor jack, the
redux/brake ends rested on the ground and the tranny remained
fairly level resting on the block in the front and the jack in the
rear.
- Remove the brake backing plates. You don't have
to remove the brake shoes - you can take the whole thing off as an
assembly. First remove the 4 bolts that hold the stub axle bearing
housing in place (14mm?) and pull it off. Then remove the 1 bolt
that holds the wheel cylinder on (bottom center - 13mm). Then
remove the 2 nuts (or bolts) that hold the adjusting mechanism on
(15mm?). Now you can pull the entire backing plate assembly
(complete with shoes, cylinder, cable, etc.) free from the redux
box. It may be possible to do this step with the tranny assembly
still in the bus, I don't know, I didn't try.
Now for the good stuff. This ONLY applies if you
are not planning on taking the entire assembly whole to a local
shop to be serviced. I'm shipping mine so will need to break it
down a bit more.
- Remove the seven 13mm bolts that hold the redux
box halves together and GENTLY beat on the boxes (there are 2
places to do this - one in each direction) until they separate.
Don't worry, none of the guts will come spilling out. Except for
maybe a bit of tranny fluid - have some rags ready.
- Remove the six 13mm nuts that hold the axle
tube retaining ring (looks like a big ashtray as one listee put it)
from the transmission. Again, be ready to catch a little extra
tranny fluid here.
- Loosen the axle boot clamps and slide the boot
clear of the axle tube retaining ring. Be ready for a little tranny
fluid here too.
- Remove the circlip on the redux box end of the
drive axle.
- Remove the bearing from the redux box end of
the drive axle. I had to put a screwdriver between the gear and the
inner housing and smack the end of the axle a few times with a 5lb
sledge hammer before I could get enough clearance to get my gear
puller on the bearing. I don't condone this action!! There is
probably some special tool for this, but I didn't have one, it was
late, and I was running out of curses to lay on my bus.
- Once the bearing is off, you can just slip that
big gear right off. Put all the guts (circlips, bearings, etc. in a
baggy - you're gonna need to clean everything up real good when you
reassemble it all).
- Now pull the axle tube free of the tranny - it
should slip right off and pull it all the way off the drive axle
which will still be attached to the tranny
- Pull out the big white plastic dome thingy from
the exposed side of the tranny.
- Using a STURDY pair of circlip pliers (the
cheapy ones I had from AutoZone kept twisting and wouldn't work)
remove the BIG circlip that goes on the transmission end of the
drive axle. This thing is about 3" diameter.
- After removing it, you can pull the drive axle
free from the tranny. When you do, there'll be a big thrust washer
that will come out on the axle.
- Remove the 2 metal plates that the axle was
sandwiched between (otherwise they'll fall out when you move your
tranny - ask me how I know). Stick them, the big circlip, and the
thrust washer in a baggy to be cleaned up later.
- The gears that drive the axles will pull right
out too. I don't know if you're supposed to remove them, but I did
because one fell out when I tipped the tranny on its side. Just
warning you...
Well, that's about all I know about it (for now
anyways). I'll be sending my tranny to the shop to be rebuilt and I
think I'll send my redux box/axle tubes along as well to have the
bearings inspected/replaced as needed. When I get everything back
and do the reassembly, I'll write it up too.
Of course, when I put all this back together
I'll need some new gaskets and oil seals for the redux boxes - the
shop can't put them on because unless you're going to get your
tranny back with the tubes and boxes already attached you'll have
to do it yourself.
Disclaimer: This write-up was done the same
night I finished removing mine so everything should be pretty
correct. But bear in mind that I had no manual and no prior
knowledge/experience with this so there may be some steps that
could have been done easier or better. Safety is THE most important
thing to consider when working under any vehicle - especially one
as top-heavy as a bus. If you don't have a safe, level place to do
this stuff, take it to a shop and pay the extra couple hundred
bucks and have it done for you.