[T2] Rust, dirt, exhaust, and everything after

[doktortim at rockisland.com]

> https://www.dropbox.com/s/wbllz3l9ek7a5mk/2013-07-20%2010.40.15.jpg
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/bb0bgj2cnqwabd3/2013-07-20%2010.40.42.jpg
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4tcuju3qf1re6x/2013-07-20%2010.40.21.jpg
>
> Rust and time seem to have fused everything together. I want to go very
> slow on this, because I'm pretty sure a new exhaust is going to be $$$$,
> which I'm okay with if I *have* to replace it, but it looks like
> everything
> is copacetic there, and it just needs a little resto-ing.
>
> So here's my question to the oracles of Type 2: how do I get these bolts
> off? I don't want to break them, so is there some rust eating chemical I
> could treat this with first?  Once I get those bolts off, how do I clean
> up
> the exhaust and restore it? Wire wheel on the rust, and then some high
> temp
> paint on the exhaust to seal it off?
>
> Cheers,
> Paul

Many times I have done R&R of what you got and worse. Spritz all the
hardware with such as PBBlaster. Repeat every hour or two. Light tapping,
200 taps per minute, with a small tool to create fine vibrations will
greatly quicken penetration. Also tends to break the bonds in the crusty
rust.

Use a 6 point ring wrench and see if the nut will loosen. If not, more
penetrant and tapping and waiting. If the nut rounds off with the 6 point
grab, next comes out the nut spliter and or hammer and chisle. Two or
three whacks with a 3 lb hammer starts it turning. Or crack it through and
turn it off with pliers.

Plan for all new hardware, including studs as required. Use the copper
self locking nuts that are 12mm across the flats. Better swing for the
wrench improves access.

I just bought the full hardware/gasket replacement sets for every R&R of
the exhaust for the type 2's. VW and OEM sets are proper specs and fit
right.

As to the heavy rust scale on the heater valves, muffler and flanges,
sandblasting and paint won't stop further rust. Do nothing and they will
last as long as they are going to. Someone on the list might have much
better used ones you could get. Those cleaned and painted properly would
last a great long while.

Note also, too many times in these weakened areas you will find the
flanges warped to some degree. Do pound those back into position. They
will work again. You do not need extra tight and a grunt on these nuts.
Just firm, then after several cycles of running temp and cooldown, check
for firm again.