[T2] engine oil pump / second oil cooler , engine improvement
Mike manikmike at gmail.comWed Nov 13 23:06:08 MST 2013
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Hi, There are, as mentioned, several options. For me: I'd have gone the route of a T1 pump* and had the confidence to order one, if either of the two I borrowed from local T1 fans fit my GE case well. Other folks may have better luck. As I did not, and case fit was a common complaint for newer ones, it seemed better to stick with stock that could be improved than dicker around trying to find T1 that fit when for a similar cost as a Melling I could have a T4 that I knew fit and was appropriate for my build reworked to potentially better condition. This does seem to be the case for the unit I received. *I looked into this because, as mentioned Raby promotes this and the mod can be seen in his Bug Me vid, and other folks who's advice I trust suggested it as a possibility - in the end, I went with what I believed would best for my application. Regarding the rebuild of the T4 pump by Phil, the process was described to me as such: - Clean exterior of pump body and remove thrust plate from housing using a special puller that I built for this job. - I mark the gears with a small center punch so I can index them at the same point at reassembly if the same gears are reused. - Remove gears and clean entire pump and pieces. - Reinstall gears and check backlash to determine is gears are reusable, if backlash exceeds factory specs then start looking for a good set gears. I use what is called a gear tooth vernier caliper to check each gear tooth on gear sets that fail the backlash test just in case one gear is worn more than the other. - If both gears are good than the next step is to mic the length of each gear and then lap the longer gear to match the shorter, I also use a little fixture that keeps the bore of the gear perpendicular to the lapped face. I also remove the shaft that is pressed into the thrust plate and lap the thrust surface and drill and tap the plate to help secure the shaft once it is pressed back into the plate, this prevents the shaft from creeping forward into the cam gear bolts which is a common problem on the type IV pump. - After lapping and deburr I set up the housing in a CNC mill again on a fixture that will hold the housing firmly and flat for machining. - These machining steps are confusing to some people (I asked for some clarification but lost that response) so I will not go into detail so I will just say that after machining the pump is reassembled, the end-play is checked and the driver shaft ( the one turns ) is set to correct length. - I am in the process of programming to machine an "O" ring groove around the suction and discharge side of the pump housing, this "O"ring should be a help in boosting the column and pressure of the pump by eliminating the gap between the pump housing and engine case. I had asked John at aircooled.net - he stated they had lost their machinist to set up the T1 pumps for T4 engine apps. This was back in Spring, so that may have changed, although the 26/ 30mm Schadeks on the website still show an unknown return time to stock. Cheers, Mike
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