[T2] Looking for an engine builder in MD or NC

[David Kelly]

Here is the rest of the story that I left out, the first engine catastrophe was my fault as I threw a fan belt and thought I could limp to the auto parts store down the street. I had several issues before that to cause it to run hot. The second one I babied but it started to run uneven so after ruling everything that I could think of out, I tore the engine down to find a burnt valve, scored cylinder walls and very shoddy workmanship. It was my fault for not looking this deal over very well before I bought it. I found GEX stamped on it. The case showed evidence of an old rod break, helicoil repairs on some of the studs and many of the studs were ground down to fit if they didnt thread in all the way. A blind monkey could have built a better engine. 

Thanks for all the suggestions so far!

David Kelly

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 11, 2013, at 2:12 PM, John Anderson <wvukidsdoc at yahoo.com> wrote:

> David,
>  
> The other thing that I will say, really only 5000 miles out of a couple engines?  With intact cooling systems, the Hoover bit, etc?  I mean even the most junkiest junk usually goes 20-30k miles if you keep at least an eye on just one form of engine heat.  OCD folks argue what they will but 1 "lousy" VDO head temp gage or an cheap oil temp gage will at least tell you in a trend sense how bad you are beating it.  Particularly for an upright with A/C.  You are asking a lot in the mid-atlantic when pulling grades, or if cruising at/slightly over the speed limit, even without the A/C, but if you keep an eye on temps, you should get 25k even out of total crap.  What were the failure modes?
>  
> I'd find somebody to build you the ubiquitous 1776 using a new case (you decide stocker or the aftermarket aluminum, they both have purported +/- but are better than anything you don't know history of, and I'd shuffle pin the stocker), Mahle P&C's, the SCAT Volksstroker 1 cast crank, a set of the cheapest of the CB Performance 044 heads, and top it with your dual single barrels of choice, sand sealed and full flowed with filter and thermostatic external cooler.  Have the whole rotating assembly spin balanced including your flywheel (stocker weight for a bus), clutch, and pulley/whatever is going to drive that A/C compressor.   I'm sure you'd get at least 85-100k of hard driving, heavy camping, A/C using miles out of it as long as your cam selection is good, you don't spin it too fast, and you make sure you watch the temps.  You might even get up to 100-125k miles, but just under 100k is more realistic.  Probably around a realistic no BS claims 80-90hp, should end up a bit stronger than a 2.0 T4 even if built conservatively because the top end and induction will be superior.
>  
> In point of fact, that is what I'm about to put together for my single cab.  I'd note that in todays world if you pay retail and don't watch for deal is going to be an honest $2200-2500 JUST IN PARTS including the carbs, not put together, I mean shit new cases are over $750 now days unless you watch for a deal, so to make even a mild little 1776 assembled today is going to be pushing $3500, have that in mind going into this.  There is no free lunch unless you build it yourself, and even then the lunch is just cheaper, not free anymore.
>  
> John
>