[T2] Undercoating removal tip
Joe Average joeaverage at frontiernet.netThu Mar 27 09:41:20 MST 2014
- Previous message: [T2] Undercoating removal tip
- Next message: [T2] Undercoating removal tip
- Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
- - - Since you have the undercoating off, are you going to put it back on or just use paint? - - - The whole reason I'm doing all this dirty work underneath is to "protect my investment". Don't want to spend all this money and time on exterior paint only to have rust appear bubbling a quarter panel or a rocker panel. Once the bus is complete I am considering flooding the body cavities with Waxoyl or something similar. Plug up the drains, floor the cavity and then let them drain. The paint work will already be done so in theory no paint problems later. Once I got into this job I realized that undercoating here and there was loose and was basically pimples waiting for water to get trapped in there and rust away the bottom of the bus. I had briefly considered removing only the loose undercoating and reapplying new undercoating over the bald spots and then remaining undercoating b/c I like the look of undercoating well enough and like the noise reduction it should offer. In the end I kept finding loose undercoating and decided that what wasn't loose would be in time. I've found a couple of tiny places where rust out was occurring but was hidden by the undercoating. So in the end I'll remove all the undercoating, smooth the little nicks in the chassis paint that I cause with the needle scaler, primer the bottom of the bus, and paint it with black paint - matte or gloss - I don't know. I do like low sheen chassis black paint. So far I'm using Rustoleum paint. Seems tough enough for my needs and economical. The exterior of the van will be some sort of fleet grade urethane paint - more economical than fancy multi-part epoxy or urethane paints and tough enough for my purposes while still being shiny. I used some last summer on some Honda parts I replaced after hitting a deer. I'm really happy with them. Anyhow in the future the plan is to be able to see rusting as it happens under the bus and address it before it gets out of hand. These vans are old enough and expensive enough now i.e. beyond just plain old used car status in my opinion - that I want to preserve the bus and my investment. I have no plans at this time to sell it so I'd like it to be as solid in a decade as it is when I finish this restoration. When i see the custom guys on TV weld in a panel - I wonder - do they ever seal the other side of this panel they just installed b/c if not - at some point - won't the rust return? Would hate to lose a $7500 paint job that I paid someone else to complete (if I was rich) only to have rust ruin it five or ten years down the road. Colors: I think my bus was a factory gray primer all over first, then painted the factory's white (for the two tone) and then the lower half color (brown). I don't think the bottom of the bus was ever painted a color - just whatever over spray reached the frame rails and the fender wells while the bottom sides of the vehicle were sprayed by the factory. Then the factory appears to have undercoated the wheel wells and whatever else happened to get in the way. Looks to me like the steering box was installed but not the front beam. Not much of the rear suspension has undercoating on it - maybe the rear trailing arms that attach to the torsion bars. Of course some previous owner or dealer might have added additional undercoating to clean it up for resale. My bus was originally sold in Albuquerque, NM so I don't know if dealers there do any "rustproofing". All the rusty parts of my bus (pinhole rust) seem to be areas that got no rust prevention (paint) on the invisible parts under the bus - the doglegs have a couple of pimples, the rear quarters where the frame rails spot weld to the back side of the outer skin, the forward ends of the rocker panels but not the rocker panels themselves. Places that salt gets trapped and gnaws away at the un-coated steel inside body cavities. Too bad VW didn't galvanize the bodies after the bodies were all welded up. I had a couple of 1st Gen Mustangs. Both had serious rust problems but their galvanized rocker panels were in good shape. I imagine that today that's all that is left - two clean rocker panels surrounded by mounds of rust topped by the stainless window trim and the glass in a field somewhere. ;) So any good pointers on things I could differently? Missing ideas or thoughts? Chris in TN '78 Westy 2.7L '65 Beetle 2.0L '97 VW Cabrio Highline '99 CR-V AWD 5MT Brenderup 1205S
- Previous message: [T2] Undercoating removal tip
- Next message: [T2] Undercoating removal tip
- Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
More information about the type2 mailing list