[T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)

[accessys at smart.net]

maybe easier on manual shift bus.
but auto trannies are very HEAVY and the slot at the front they have to 
slide into is a real tight fit,  have only done it once as whole unit and 
swore I would never do it again

Bob


On Wed, 5 Nov 2014, Richard J wrote:

> Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2014 09:37:53 -0600
> From: Richard J <richardhjack at yahoo.com>
> To: type2 at type2.com
> Subject: [T2]  Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)
> 
> I too have have issues pulling and reinstalling a type 4 motor in a 74 bus.  What a nightmare.  This last weekend helped a friend of mine install his newly FI motor into his 74 bus.  I thought back to my Porsche 914 days and remembered how you install those units.  As one peice.  Trans and motor together.  We did it this weekend on his.  One Jack on the bus right forward of the torsion bar.  One on the motor one on the trans.  Took two of us to handle the jacks.  Had to bring the units up into the bus.  Then bring the trans up higher to clear the shifter linkage.  Once it was clear jack up the rear jack under the motor and bam it was in.  Super easy and all components still on the motor.  Oil filler, exhaust all the tin.  It never touched the body.  I'm doing it this way from now on!  I'd had forgot about my 914's.  You put the motor and trans  under the car and bring the car down over it.
>
> Richard
> 1974 Westy
> Lubbock, Texas
>
>
>
>> On Nov 5, 2014, at 8:04 AM, Michael <muts at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> In daughter's 75 bus, we pulled the engine for a clutch redo- In the past after engine redo at Jon's Motors we pulled it to replace a trans, but then pulled them together.  Easy reinstall, but all that removal of axles, shift stuff....
>>   The bus was driven onto 3 2X8's nailed to form a ramp.  Front is jacked up to get bus level again. Using a motorcycle jack was easy, had to remove all the top stuff on the engine, even the coil, and then that @&(^&$$# oil fill pipe- it rubs on the body beam behind the engine when you pull back far enough to clear transhaft.  With trans mounted above, you cannot easily let it down as on our 71 bus.  As engine came out, we had to change the angle of the bus (let front down) to clear the beam as we pulled/jacked down.  After clutch redo (think the o-ring in flywheel was flat, letting oil to clutch) I decided to replace /inspect clutch cable.  Then I noticed cable from PEX that BusDepot sells was much thinner than what was there or that Italian one I had gotten years before as spare for our 78 camper. Old thicker one looked fine, length was same so it was put back with lots of grease.
>>   Reinstall was done using that $59 aluminum jack from Harbor Freight, as it sits lower to ground and still can be jacked high enough with bus on the 4.5" ramp.  Unlike the motorcycle jack it is easier to tip engine if needed. The usual slide engine under bus, use digging bar on a fulcrum of 6x6 deck beam cutoff to lift one side under BALANCE POINT of engine and insert a $x4 piece under heater box.  Repeat other side. Lift again with 2x4 on fulcrum, etc until engine was up enough to  slide jack under with a plyboard hunk under engine to protect fins/strainer plate. Again the oil fill pipe was an issue- it hits the beam and you must goof around tipping engine back as you slide forward at right height to let shaft enter center of clutch release plate. Very vexing, as I laid underneath calling out "Left, right" and noting center of shaft before friend could push- and watching when lower studs on trans enter the engine holes, the angle must be adjusted to get things parallel.!
   Then we
> couldn't push any more- turned engine, etc but it was over 1/2" short so no bolt ends showed.  Pretty sure clutch splines were on shaft, as you could turn engine and it binds when in gear.  At 70 yr old, this was enough for me- I slid a ground down carriage bolt above starter and a capbolt on other side each `1.5" longer than stock, and friend got the nuts on to start pulling in engine.  Then rubbing was noted (due to angle as lower bolts were not pulling in)  Quit- now I may try lowering front of bus so weight of engine will pull lower studs in?.  Arrgghhh
>> --
>> MUTS Oboe/EH support = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver
>> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
>> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
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