[T2] Electrical problems

[Bob Pratt]

Hey Joe, ate you talking about the brake line itself, or the bleeder valve located on the wheel cylinder?

Bob Pratt

> On Jun 16, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Joseph Delecki <jdelecki at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello Bob,
>  
> Since the master cylinder has hydraulically actuated switches, I learned after a bit of trial and error that a little residual air in the cylinder can cause brake light failure. At the time, I was working on the rear brakes so this is what I did to bleed off the air. Make sure that the brake fluid reservoir behind the front driver seat stays topped off and the cover on and does not run dry during the procedure. On the master cylinder, I cracked the fitting for the rear brake line until fluid was leaking and pumped the brake pedal several times. Make sure that with the last pump down you KEEP THE PEDAL DEPRESSED before tightening the fitting back up. Otherwise, air can be sucked back in to the system.  If working alone, I wedge  a  wood stick between the brake pedal and steering wheel to keep the pedal depressed.  Since I was working on the rear brakes I did not experiment with trying this procedure on the front brake line. Over the years,  I have learned to leave well enough alone when making repairs. You might want try this procedure on the front brake line fitting if you still have the problem with your brake lights .  
>  
>  
> PS: Just as an afterthought, I assume that if you replaced any running light bulbs they have the correct number of filaments? Some of the problems you describe sounded like you are using a one filament bulb versus the required two filaments/bulb..
>  
> Joe
>  
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Bob Pratt
> Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 8:47 PM
> To: Joseph Delecki
> Cc: type2 at type2.com
> Subject: Re: [T2] Electrical problems
>  
> Hi Joe,
> Thanks for the advice. How do you bleed just the master cylinder? I replaced it last fall about the same time the brake lights stopped working.
> 
> Bob Pratt
> 
> On Jun 15, 2016, at 8:50 AM, Joseph Delecki <jdelecki at msn.com> wrote:
> 
>> Bob,
>>  
>> I have owned my 71 camper for the last 30 or so years and I have experienced my share of electrical problems.
>>  
>> I can find it challenging to localize an electrical problem on the bus due to the age of the components and unusual failure modes.
>>  
>> But, just off the top of my head and looking at the electrical schematic ,( I hope you have the one in Bentley) , I would look at the integrity of the voltages going into and out of the flasher relay when
>> doing your tests AND the actual wiring  from the flasher to the bulbs. Many of the circuits you mention in your email  pass through the flasher before going to the various bulbs.  You have to understand how to read an electrical wiring diagram to do the tests with a simple voltmeter.
>>  
>> Believe it or not, the one time problem I had with my brake lights not working had to do
>> with when I replaced the brake master cylinder and left some air in the master brake cylinder.
>> Now if I am doing some brake line work I make sure to bleed the master cylinder at the master cylinder. However, you should also be  able to do an electrical test at the flasher to check your
>> brake lighting.
>>  
>> Just some thoughts to consider not to confuse………………..
>>  
>>  
>> Joe      
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>  
>> From: Bob Pratt
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 3:03 AM
>> To: type2 at type2.com; accessys at smart.net
>> Subject: [T2] Electrical problems
>>  
>> Hi all.
>> I've been trying to troubleshoot the new wiring for a month now. I double, triple, and quadruple checked every connection. I've found a couple of wrong connections, but there are a few problems I can't figure out.
>> 
>> All of the directional lights work, but when I turn on the 4 way flashers, only the front ones work. I've changed the switch. The brake lights don't work. I checked the connections on the master cylinder. The oil pressure light doesn't come on. I've changed the oil pressure switch and bulb twice.
>> 
>> I've tried everything I can think of. I used "Noalox" on all the connections.
>> It's used to make better mechanical bond.
>> 
>> PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
>> 
>> Bob Pratt=
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