[T2] @&^%$$ oil leak still there -update

[c.dreike]

As for refinishing the shaft with sandpaper and steel wool, I would 
further polish using Flitz or Simichrome or other polishing compound 
that will result in a mirror finish. I have used 1000 and 2000 grit 
paper and then used 1 or even .2 micron diamond compound to finish 
shafts for a good seal.

Chris


On 11/6/2016 6:47 AM, MUTS wrote:
>
>    Researched the seal seating issue, mostly on the Samba, Bob Hoover 
> blog (he died in 2010) $ some YouTube.  The seal is to be put in all 
> the way according to most of the advice, since if put in only flush, 
> it will ride on the wider part and edge can burn? Fully seated it will 
> stay square.  The early seal drivers did push the seal flush 
> (beetles?) but the later ones sunk it in- and was advised for type 4 
> (which is like the type2)?  I made a seal pusher from an electrical 
> coverplate with the 5 holes for flywheel drilled in.  The seal can be 
> driven in with old seal.
>      The best way to remove the seal I have learned is to use a large 
> bent prybar 1/2" wide and using outer edge of seal area as fulcrum, 
> pry out the seal.  This one came out pretty easily- it was the orange 
> German one- may have shrunk? It only had about 10mi rotation and 
> looked ok.  I cannot recall putting any oil or grease on backside of 
> flywheel as is reccommended.
>    I cleaned things yesterday and noticed 2 things- there is some 
> marking of the case seal surface due to past seal pull attempts. I 
> cleaned up some high spots that looked like transfer of some metal.  
> The flywheel I believe was a used replacement when I went to a larger 
> trans and needed a bigger flywheel/clutch and starter. It worked fine 
> for years.  It is not "mirror smooth" in the seal area- I am trying to 
> sandpaper it and polish with steel wool. This engine has 220K miles on 
> the never split case, but heads, rod bearings, were redone 60K ago.  I 
> did remove the shims and felt the thrust bearing as Nyssa turned the 
> crank side to side- felt no movement.  In my reading, high oil 
> pressure on the seal can come from excessive end play, blockage of 
> return hole you see behind the flywheel mount, or blockage in return 
> system by excessive sealer chipping off, especially silicone RTV- also 
> stuck pressure relief valve?
>    Loss of power/slipping clutch is why I pulled the engine over a 
> year ago, and I did see oil on clutch.  Don't recall it leaking onto 
> the driveway.   Replaced it, along with seal, and the woes started- I 
> wonder still if something else is leaking (galley plugs?-but looks 
> like clean original rtv around the plugs and back of flywheel was oily 
> as if leak started int he center, not from a plug.).
> MUTS  = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver oboe, clarinet support
> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
>
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