[T2] Fwd: Re: water injection

[c.dreike]

  There is no carb, only a throttle body from a 1600cc 1995 Mexican fuel 
injected bug.
My injection point being below the throttle caused high flow rate at 
idle. Not good.
I'll try again sometime soon and let you know the result.

Cheers,
Chris


On 10/29/2016 6:52 PM, Robert Mann wrote:
> What carb do you have?
> The best place to slap in the water is, as I theorise, just outside 
> the throttle butterfly.  This is where a small hole takes vacuum (via 
> a nozzle at no predictable place on the carb body) for the dizzie.
> Actually it doesn't matter as much in practice on our engines, because 
> they are wide open nearly all the time.
>
> Keep in touch
>
> R
>
> On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 2:08 PM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net 
> <mailto:c.dreike at verizon.net>> wrote:
>
>     Robert,
>     I have read through your treatise on water injection and it seems
>     that I misunderstood where the injection should take place. I have
>     connected to a port on the throttle body which is below the butterfly.
>     Back to the drawing board.
>
>     Regards.
>     Chris
>     64DD Kamper Kit
>
>
>
>     On 10/29/2016 3:45 PM, Robert Mann wrote:
>>     My article <http://www.kuratrading.com/HTMLArticles/writings.htm
>>     <http://www.kuratrading.com/HTMLArticles/writings.htm>> mentions
>>     the sizes of needle which, on different carbs, give a suitable
>>     feed-rate of water / i.e./ approx 5% of the fuel consumption.
>>           Quote:
>>                         Often best is 0.71mm (22G) or 0.63mm (23G),
>>     but 0.8mm (21G) or 0.51mm (25G) is best for some motors.
>>
>>          If I convert 0.012" correctly, it comes to 0.3mm which is if
>>     anything too small.  I can't think where there would be a strong
>>     enough vacuum to suck thru that tiny restriction such a huge flow
>>     as you record.  I suspect one of us (?both) has made a numerical
>>     error.  Let us both check  ...
>>          My 1600dp has the Brazilian Weber (30mm choke).  The rubber
>>     joiner  push-fit onto the nozzle which provides the vacuum to the
>>     distributor has a 0.61mm needle stabbed in from the high side. 
>>     The rear L of the body provides a good spot for c. 3L of water. 
>>     If like me you are in a jurisdiction requiring official safey
>>     inspections regularly, you may be required to slap a floor into
>>     that water compartment; if so, perspex is best.
>>          Sorry to hear your oxygen sensor was crippled.  May it
>>     recover upon some more use? BTW AFAIK the use of that component
>>     was invented by my sometime U of Auckland colleague Dr Geo
>>     Blanshard, who reasoned it was all very well to inject what is
>>     computed from the airflow, the accelerator position, etc, but if
>>     you fail to check what then actually results from combustion you
>>     are in a sense working in the dark.  I recall the sensor he
>>     slapped into the exhaust cost (c.1981) $200.  If yours does not
>>     recover from its chilling experience, I trust the replacement
>>     will by today be much cheaper.
>>
>>     Keep in touch
>>
>>     Robt Mann
>>     1973 1600dp Devon
>>
>>     On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 4:55 AM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net
>>     <mailto:c.dreike at verizon.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         Robert,
>>         I finally tried some water injection on my FI upright engine
>>         using your ideas. I need a smaller orifice to meter the
>>         water. I used one around .012". Sucked water like mad. About
>>         a pint in few minutes. Had to keep the engine reved up to
>>         prevent stalling.  Ruined my wide band O2 sensor. I suppose a
>>         smaller amount of H2O would not do the damage. What size
>>         needle did you use in your water injection exeriments?
>>
>>         Regards,
>>         Chris
>>         64DD Kamper Kit
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>
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