[T2] Door gasket
Ned Savoie ned at harbourlight.comMon Apr 10 14:51:56 PDT 2017
- Previous message: [T2] Door gasket
- Next message: [T2] Door gasket
- Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
No problem, Bob. Let us know how it goes. Ned -- Ned Savoie Creative Director Harbour Light Strategic Marketing Savvy Software, Inc. 621A Islington Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 [Telephone] 603.427.2821 [Facsimile] 603.427.0938 [Mobile] 603.828.2400 On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 5:04 PM, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote: > Thanks for all the info Ned! It's suppose to be nice the next week or so. > I have Brazilian gaskets, but now I'm wondering if I should buy the German > ones and install the Brazilian ones until I start to prime and paint > "Myles." > > Bob > > On Apr 6, 2017, at 5:28 PM, Ned Savoie <ned at harbourlight.com> wrote: > > Hey Bob, > > I have new seals. Still haven't installed them. But when I asked a few > years ago I got some good info: > > Hey all, > > I have my new front door seals from BD. I ordered the German ones. Having > a tough time finding best practices for installation. Wash off the powdery > coating or leave it? Only glue where necessary in corners or also add some > glue in the channels? > > Any advice or websites that cover this would be helpful. I've checked > Samba, Ratwell, IAC, etc. and not found any consistent advice or how-to. > > Thanks, > > Ned > > ---------- > > From John Anderson: > Ned, I can say to how they were initially installed, and how I've done em. > > Wipe off the powder with damp cloth, but don't kill yourself. I wipe > round once, then wipe the back (glued) surface once more round. I put the > smallest drip of purple cleaner in a gallon of hot water, moderately > squeezed out towel. In WV (and in AK I'd do the same but haven't installed > a set yet up here) I tossed them in the clothes dryer for 10 minutes > wrapped in a zip tied old pillow case. In a warm land, lay em out on the > driveway. 3M weatherstrip cement, per instructions, entire way round. > That is how them came, and in fact getting out the old adhesive is a real > PITA, plastic scraper tool and laquer thinner helps to get the old glue out > first. A 2" wide plastic putty knife helps to work em in. Get them seated > COMPLETELY or else your doors won't close. That happens even with the BD > German ones, but much worse with the SA crap. Be happy you sprung the > extra for the German. Rust in the channel of course needs dealt with and > can be a real pain as it often involves the overlapping layers and is hard > to really treat. > > Be amazed at how solidly the doors thunk shut at the end. > > John > > ------------ > > From Jim Thompson: > > One other experienced tip - Even with the seals fully and correctly > installed, you will find the doors difficult to close. This is normal and > they need time to fully "seat" in place. A little known fact is that when > seals were installed on the production line, VW employed a few people to go > up and down the line opening and closing the doors to "seat" the seals as > best as possible. In addition, completed Buses (and Bugs/Type 3s) were > often sitting with their doors closed during transport to the US (and > beyond) further allowing the seals to "seat". By the time they arrived at > the dealers, the doors were easier to close (relatively speaking). > > In a recent install of these door seals on a 71 Bus here at Airhead Parts, > we didn't remove the talcum powder, we just installed them dry with 3M > cement in most, but not all spots in the channel. > > One further note: You may find the door just slightly "sticking" out and > not flush with the body with new seals. Resist the urge to re-adjust the > striker plates as eventually after the seals "seat" the door will > eventually become flush. Keep in mind that when VW installed doors and did > all of the necessary adjustments, it was done without and before the seals > were installed. > > Just my nickel's worth :) > > Hope this helps! > > > > Ned > > -- > > Ned Savoie > Creative Director > > Harbour Light Strategic Marketing > Savvy Software, Inc. > 621A Islington Street > Portsmouth, NH 03801 > > [Telephone] 603.427.2821 <(603)%20427-2821> > [Facsimile] 603.427.0938 <(603)%20427-0938> > [Mobile] 603.828.2400 <(603)%20828-2400> > > On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 5:12 PM, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote: > >> Thanks for the info Kevin. Can you remember if the groove in the gasket >> goes over the lip of the channel? >> >> Bob >> >> > On Apr 6, 2017, at 3:15 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> >> wrote: >> > >> > Installing gaskets. Iâm not sure about this gasket in particular, but I >> have some experience installing similar gaskets. >> > I suggest you start in the middle and push the gasket into place. Then >> push the ends in place too. Now push the gasket into place by cutting the >> distance between installed points in half. >> > >> > It is very easy to start a gasket on one end to install, and >> inadvertently stretch the gasket as you install it. Then when you get to >> the end â you have a lot of extra gasket. Then you cut the extra off. >> > >> > A week or month later, the gasket shrinks a bit back to its original >> size, and now you have a gasket that is a bit too short! >> > >> > -Kevin Guarnotta >> > Jamaica Plain, MA >> > >> > â78 Westy >> > '69 Singlecab >> > '65 Ez-camper >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> type2 mailing list >> type2 at type2.com >> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo > > >
- Previous message: [T2] Door gasket
- Next message: [T2] Door gasket
- Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
More information about the type2 mailing list