[T2] Fwd: Re: Good News

[c.dreike]

  Kevin,
I would think that the cool tube is the clogged one. The tubes are 
supposed to be hot so that the heat transfers up to the carb preventing 
icing on cold days and all around better fuel vaporization. From my 
experience, the paint normally gets ratty on the heat riser tubes. The 
tubes attach very near to the head exhaust port and the exhaust temp is 
quite high.

Good luck with the new coil.
Check to see that the dizzy rotor bearing is not worn out. Side slop 
will really screw up your timing and the dwell (point gap).

Chris
64DD Kamper Kit

On 8/18/2017 6:47 AM, Kevin Guarnotta wrote:
>
> All the fuel lines have been replaced, and whenever I look in the 
> engine compartment – the fuel filters are full of gas. I had marked 
> distributor so I’d have a reference point for timing. It has not spun 
> at all.
>
> After checking points and installing a new blue bosch coil, I started 
> the bus this morning,. It doesn’t seem like it is there yet. I thought 
> I could hear something off in the way the engine ran. I then was 
> looking at the intake manifold. This is a single port engine. On the 
> driver side the smaller of the tubes (Heat Riser?) tube is a bit 
> rusty. The rest of the manifold is a clean grey like I painted it. I 
> touch the rusty part of the manifold with the engine idling for a 
> couple minutes. It was HOT. The rest of the manifold was cool/cold to 
> the touch.
>
> I wonder why one would get hot while the other are cool. I guess this 
> is probably getting super hot all the time – hence the paint 
> rusting/burning off. I wonder if this tube is blocked? What would be 
> the consequences of this tube being blocked. I vaguely recall when I 
> got a used intake manifold, to replace the one I had, one of these 
> tubes was clogged, and I had to clear it out. I wonder if it clogged 
> again? I think the one I had on before clogged here, and eventually 
> rusted a small hole in it. At least that is what I think happened – it 
> was a long time ago.
>
> Well I’ll try a test spin with the new coil, and re-checked points. I 
> admit when I broke down on the side of the road – I checked the 
> points, but it was kind of hard to see – and keep an eye for any crazy 
> driver who may try to hit me. I also didn’t have my point gapping 
> measuring device.
>
> I’m also wondering if the distributor could have gone bad? What would 
> the symptoms of a bad distributor be? That is holding me from getting 
> the pertronix points replacement – if I need a new distributor, it may 
> change what I buy.
>
> Was writ  by chris–
>
> Sounds like a fuel problem. Gunk in the tank? I think that is where 
> you started.
>
> Maybe the fuel line between the pump and the carb is cruddy and 
> shedding particles?? Stretching here.
>
> Make sure that the dizzy clamp was tightened.
>
> Check the point gap again. Need to be sure nothing slipped out of 
> calibration.
>
> Was writ by John Morris
>
> PS. I love the fact that emails are flying around like 1999 again on 
> the VB list, before long we will be passing a hubcap...
>
> Another good reason to bring my bus out of storage…;) I miss the crazy 
> activity of the list in the old days, but I understand how thes*amb* 
> has taken over.
>
> -Kevin Guarnotta
>
> Jamaica Plain, MA
>
> ’78 Westy
>
> '69 Singlecab
>
> '65 Ez-camper
>