[T2] [Q] Heat Resistant Foam
c.dreike c.dreike at verizon.netSat May 12 15:18:58 PDT 2018
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Hi, I used the NASA insulation on the roof of my engine compartment. Seems that Home Depot sells it. Here is a link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-24-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11424/100661257?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD22%7C22-4_INSULATION%7CGeneric%7CPLA%7CAllInsulation%7c71700000033760329%7c58700003913725483%7c92700032580649969&gclid=Cj0KCQjwodrXBRCzARIsAIU59TI5qvaZa7V0r0NfTpZ7J92_njNlvOyCw4Eg75G765YM642NmbhZqqIaAndgEALw_wcB&dclid=CIfk-N-RgdsCFQnqZAod1IMKpw It looks like the same stuff I have here. I took my propane Bernzomatic to it and it charred, flamed slightly and then self extinguished. This is per the specs I have on my roll. Seems that at the time I purchased, it was approved for aircraft. Regards, Chris 64DD Kamper Kit On 5/10/2018 10:33 AM, David C Matthews wrote: > Also working on the engine compartment and thinking about how to insulate > the ceiling. Noticed on an unrelated project that spray-able foams (i.e. > Great Stuff) do not stick to plastic. That means you can use plastic to > provide an expansion barrier when applying foam, peeling off the plastic > once the foam is cured. > > Applying this technique to the ceiling of the engine compartment, plan on > temporarily attaching plastic drop cloth to the ribbing (probably with > rubber cement). Foam will then be squirted into the "mold" by poking the > application nozzle through the plastic. Once cured, the plastic will be > peeled and the rubber cement scrubbed off. > > The question is whether the fire-block types of foam will provide the > necessary thermal characteristics. Found two fire-block types of spray-able > foam, and they each are supposed to handle temperatures up to 240-250 > degrees F. > > Is that sufficient? > > Have not put a thermometer in the engine compartment (yet). > > David > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
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