[T2] T4 1700 questions

[Al Brase]

Apparently they do not check for smog equipment on vehicles that old? I've
found that used 10mm valve adjusting screws (from 1976-83 type 4 engines)
worked great. Back when they were a dollar, that made sense.Slotted head
bolts 25-30mm long? They are now $6.50! each. BTW, some only have 3 AIR
ports. Go figure.
I don't think they use valve seals. Probably worn oil rings. And I would
not worry about that till blowby becomes a problem.
Personally, on my own vehicle I almost replace nothing. Clutch parts last
me a very long time 60k+miles. I just don't use the clutch very hard.I put
some new grease on the pilot bearing after inspection.
I figure I'll probably have the engine out in a few years for some reason.
Furthermore, I'm old. I don't need to buy another 20 years of trouble free
ownership. I'd rather spend the money on my old Porsche 912 and make it
into daily driver.


On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 2:48 PM Dave Gillingham <dave at coronado-realty.com>
wrote:

> Thanks!  I will look for bolts that fit.  Good thought on the seals.
>
> On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 12:45 PM Bradley Spear <my13jetta at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > 1. An air infection pump started in 1973 that put air in to each cylinder
> > via these ports. You air pump hass probably been gone for years. Some
> > people seal the old tubes. Other people put in bolts. And others replace
> > the heads.
> >
> > 2. Probably valve seals.
> >
> > 3. I would replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing while
> > the engine and transmission are apart.
> >
> > Brad Spear
> > '72 Westy
> > '71 Karmann Ghia
> >
> > On Sat, Sep 1, 2018, 14:30 Dave Gillingham <dave at coronado-realty.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Hi list:
> >>
> >> I pulled the engine from my 73 bus to replace the front and rear crank
> >> seals, and to have the trans rebuilt (the famous third gear synchro).
> >>
> >> Couple of questions:
> >>
> >> 1) This engine appears to have been an FI engine and it has some pretty
> >> ugly threaded (but plugged) tubes next to each plug.  Is there something
> >> less obtrusive that can be installed?
> >>
> >> 2) The engine emits a fair amount of blue smoke on start up.  I’ll guess
> >> worn valve guides, although it isnt clear to me how they would leak oil
> >> into the cylinder given the orientation of the valves.  Engine
> compression
> >> is between about 115 and 130, so I wasn’t planning on pulling it apart.
> >> Should I have the heads rebuilt?  Could the shop plug the FI holes?
> >>
> >> 3) Last for now:  the clutch was working just fine, and doesn’t look
> >> particularly worn.  Is there a way to check the pressure plate, or is
> this
> >> a “don’t be an idiot, replace both” scenario?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Dave
> >> --
> >>
> >> Dave Gillingham, Owner/Broker
> >>
> >> License # 01184185
> >>
> >> o:  (619) 435-0145
> >>
> >> e:  dave at coronado-realty.com <natalie at coronado-realty.com>
> >>
> >> a: 1111 9th St #202, Coronado, CA 92118
> >> <
> https://maps.google.com/?q=a:+1111+9th+St+%23202,+Coronado,+CA+92118&entry=gmail&source=g
> >
> >> _______________________________________________
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> > --
>
> Dave Gillingham, Owner/Broker
>
> License # 01184185
>
> o:  (619) 435-0145
>
> e:  dave at coronado-realty.com <natalie at coronado-realty.com>
>
> a: 1111 9th St #202, Coronado, CA 92118
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