[T2] T4 1700 questions

[Dave Gillingham]

I just got the trans back from rebuildings, and it looked so good I decided
to replace the clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing.

I have the engine down to the long block and am wondering if I should go
ahead and replace the pushrod seals?  I don't think they are leaking.  My
thinking is that they don't require an engine pull to fix later.

Also, my fan casing is felony dirty - caked crud inside.  Can it be dipped
at a radiator shop without damaging it?

And, is there a source for the various rubber grommets in the engine tin?

Finally, and I don't know that this is critical...my alternator mounting
bolt was missing the nut, and the threads are damaged.  Anybody know of a
source for a new one?

TIA,

Dave

On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 2:53 PM, Bob Reuter <accessys at smart.net> wrote:

>
> whoops I have an auto tranny bus so not all that remembering stuff from
> manuals
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, 1 Sep 2018, Al Brase wrote:
>
> I was speaking of the clutch pilot bearing, just to be clear. If it rolls
>> smoothly with my pinky and does not feel rought, I plunge same clean pinky
>> into a tube of grease then lube up the inside a bit.
>> Al
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 4:16 PM Bob Reuter <accessys at smart.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> just a point, not all starters have a pilot bearing. if someone replaced
>>> it with an auto tranny starter it is self supporting and doesn't need
>>> that
>>> pilot hole
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, 1 Sep 2018, Al Brase wrote:
>>>
>>> Apparently they do not check for smog equipment on vehicles that old?
>>>>
>>> I've
>>>
>>>> found that used 10mm valve adjusting screws (from 1976-83 type 4
>>>> engines)
>>>> worked great. Back when they were a dollar, that made sense.Slotted head
>>>> bolts 25-30mm long? They are now $6.50! each. BTW, some only have 3 AIR
>>>> ports. Go figure.
>>>> I don't think they use valve seals. Probably worn oil rings. And I would
>>>> not worry about that till blowby becomes a problem.
>>>> Personally, on my own vehicle I almost replace nothing. Clutch parts
>>>> last
>>>> me a very long time 60k+miles. I just don't use the clutch very hard.I
>>>>
>>> put
>>>
>>>> some new grease on the pilot bearing after inspection.
>>>> I figure I'll probably have the engine out in a few years for some
>>>>
>>> reason.
>>>
>>>> Furthermore, I'm old. I don't need to buy another 20 years of trouble
>>>>
>>> free
>>>
>>>> ownership. I'd rather spend the money on my old Porsche 912 and make it
>>>> into daily driver.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 2:48 PM Dave Gillingham <
>>>> dave at coronado-realty.com
>>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!  I will look for bolts that fit.  Good thought on the seals.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 12:45 PM Bradley Spear <my13jetta at gmail.com>
>>>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>> 1. An air infection pump started in 1973 that put air in to each
>>>>>>
>>>>> cylinder
>>>
>>>> via these ports. You air pump hass probably been gone for years. Some
>>>>>> people seal the old tubes. Other people put in bolts. And others
>>>>>>
>>>>> replace
>>>
>>>> the heads.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 2. Probably valve seals.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 3. I would replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing
>>>>>>
>>>>> while
>>>
>>>> the engine and transmission are apart.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Brad Spear
>>>>>> '72 Westy
>>>>>> '71 Karmann Ghia
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sat, Sep 1, 2018, 14:30 Dave Gillingham <dave at coronado-realty.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi list:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I pulled the engine from my 73 bus to replace the front and rear
>>>>>>> crank
>>>>>>> seals, and to have the trans rebuilt (the famous third gear synchro).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Couple of questions:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 1) This engine appears to have been an FI engine and it has some
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> pretty
>>>
>>>> ugly threaded (but plugged) tubes next to each plug.  Is there
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> something
>>>
>>>> less obtrusive that can be installed?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 2) The engine emits a fair amount of blue smoke on start up.  I’ll
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> guess
>>>
>>>> worn valve guides, although it isnt clear to me how they would leak
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> oil
>>>
>>>> into the cylinder given the orientation of the valves.  Engine
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> compression
>>>>>
>>>>>> is between about 115 and 130, so I wasn’t planning on pulling it
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> apart.
>>>
>>>> Should I have the heads rebuilt?  Could the shop plug the FI holes?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 3) Last for now:  the clutch was working just fine, and doesn’t look
>>>>>>> particularly worn.  Is there a way to check the pressure plate
>>>>>>> <https://maps.google.com/?q=re+a+way+to+check+the+pressure+plate&entry=gmail&source=g>,
>>>>>>> or is
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> this
>>>>>
>>>>>> a “don’t be an idi
>>>>>>> <https://maps.google.com/?q=t+be+an+idi&entry=gmail&source=g>ot,
>>>>>>> replace both” scenario?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dave Gillingham, Owner/Broker
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> License # 01184185
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> o:  (619) 435-0145
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> e:  dave at coronado-realty.com <natalie at coronado-realty.com>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> a: 1111 9th St #202, Coronado, CA 92118
>>>>>>> <
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> https://maps.google.com/?q=a:+1111+9th+St+%23202,+Coronado,+
>>> CA+92118&entry=gmail&source=g
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> type2 mailing list
>>>>>>> type2 at type2.com
>>>>>>> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Dave Gillingham, Owner/Broker
>>>>>
>>>>> License # 01184185
>>>>>
>>>>> o:  (619) 435-0145
>>>>>
>>>>> e:  dave at coronado-realty.com <natalie at coronado-realty.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> a: 1111 9th St #202, Coronado, CA 92118
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> type2 mailing list
>>>>> type2 at type2.com
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>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>


-- 

Dave Gillingham, Owner/Broker

License # 01184185

o:  (619) 435-0145

e:  dave at coronado-realty.com <natalie at coronado-realty.com>

a: 1111 9th St #202, Coronado, CA 92118