[T2] [VB] Hot engine

[david raistrick]

that's a fair point bob - and kind of leans toward my other point:  you
might just be under geared for your power.   a 1776 isn't generally
considered a torque monster.  that said, you mentioned 3rd @ 50 @ 3900
wasn't helping cool it down, so it's probably still something else.   (for
those that dont recall, a stock big nut bus turns 4000 @ 65, plus or minus
a margin from tire variances)



On Sun, Dec 8, 2019 at 10:10 PM Bob <accessys at smart.net> wrote:

>
> a random thought, because it heats on a slight incline and cools going
> down, may I suggest getting the bus weighed at a truck stop or other place
> able to find out curb weight, over the years I have found weight creeps up
> and could be overloading the engine????
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Sun, 8 Dec 2019, Chris Dreike wrote:
>
> > To answer David's questions:
> > It is a 1964 split bus
> > Rear tires are 205-75-R15, Radius is: 12.5 inches from the center of the
> > nut to the ground
> > This is a big nut with reduction gears. 3.88 r&p freeway flier.
> > RPM at 65mph is approximately 3350, as measured by the fuel injection
> > computer.
> > Porsche pulley on the alternator to make up for the freeway flier.
> > Crank pulley is stock size from Scat with degree markings.
> >
> > Engine is 1776, 69mm counterbalanced crank and 90.5 jugs
> > Exhaust is a vintage speed. heater boxes installed.
> > Ignition is full electronic controlled by a Megasquirt ECU
> > Fuel injection using mexi-bug stock throttle body and intake manifold
> > Oil pump I believe to be stock size
> > Full flow oil filter system
> > Sorry I don't have exact oil pressure data numbers, however I did check
> > that it is high when cold Maybe 60 psi and drops to 5-10 psi when warmed
> up
> > to running temp.
> >
> > Cooling is a doghouse with wide fan, stock oil cooler plus a small
> external
> > cooler from Emp plumbed in after the filter and located under the floor,
> > not in the engine compartment.
> > Complete tinwork is installed with all rubber seals in good condition.
> Most
> > likely have a hoover bit installed as I assembled the tinworks.
> > The thermostat and vanes are not installed.
> >
> > I expect that the engine was running hot even when I had a progressive
> carb
> > on it as it was frying the oil even back then.
> > And it has been hot as long as I have been running the fuel injection
> and I
> > know this because I installed cylinder head temp sensors on 1 & 3 Sensors
> > are in rings on the spark plugs.
> > The heads get hot running down the freeway as soon as I'm going up a
> slight
> > incline. they can rapidly rise to 380 and keep on going if I let it
> which I
> > did once and hit 400.
> > The temp quickly drops again when going down even a slight incline to
> > around 330 or less.
> > Around town the temp is running around 280-300..
> >
> > The spark plugs are clean as a whistle. No carbon. No melting, just white
> > and grey powdery looking stuff
> > The valves take minimal adjustment when I check. Sometimes too loose and
> > others times just a hair tight. As I have CrMo push rods, I adjust to
> .002.
> > Engine bullder told me to adjust at zero .
> > Down shifting from 4 to 3 while going up hill does not cool things off
> > unless I slow way down. As the engine is well balanced, I can run 50 in
> 3rd
> > about 3900 rpm,
> > I filled up with 91 octane on some advice, that made no change.
> > At WOT the a/f ratio is about 12.5:1 per my gauge and the advance is at
> 28
> > degrees. And the head temp just goes up.
> >
> > Jake Raby indicates that even under load the heads should not be much
> > hotter than 340 and if the heads hit 400 that is much too hot and if they
> > hit 425, get new heads.
> >
> > Hope I got it all here.
> > Thanks in Advance.
> >
> > Chris
> > 64 DD Kamper Kit
> > 71 Sunroof
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>