[T2] Gas gage weirdness

[Al Brase]

I'm at the point of needing one. That's why I mentioned it.
(Well, I guess  have some time to ponder it, front windshield opening is 2"
out of square and A-pillar weirdness, too.)
I wonder if anyone has ever restrung one successfully. the wiper might be
more of a problem?
Al

On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 11:02 AM Dan Bessom <grtfldan at gmail.com> wrote:

> The new ones are junk too.
>
> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 7:25 AM Al Brase <alribee at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Long term storage seems to take a toll on the senders, for sure. The older
>> ones are quite delicate inside.
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 11:16 PM c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Thanks for the tips guys. Yes the "vibrator" assembly is a feature on
>> > bay window buses, however only sometime after 1972. The function of the
>> > gizmo is to stabilize the voltage for a consistently accurate reading.
>> > The device is actually a voltage regulator. If you look on The Samba you
>> > will find some descriptions of what it is and what it does. This does
>> > however give me an additional idea for my operational amplifier design.
>> > I'll add a voltage regulator for more stable operation.
>> >
>> > I'll whip one of these together over the next few days and let everyone
>> > know how it works out. In the mean time maybe someone will pop up with
>> > another idea of what I might be doing wrong. I mean, VW built these
>> > things for years and they worked just fine. I'll take a look in on my
>> > splitty and see what that's doing. That gas gauge is working fine.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Chris
>> > 71 Sunroof
>> > 64DD Kamper Kit
>> >
>> > On 2/21/2019 4:47 PM, c.dreike wrote:
>> > > Started testing my gas gage and sender. The sender worked when I
>> > > installed it. Currently the tank is very low and the sender reads
>> > > about 80 ohms. According to The Samba this is about correct. The
>> > > senders run from about 3-5 ohms at full to about 70-80 ohms at empty.
>> > >
>> > > When connected, both of the gauges I have read full and a little past.
>> > > The battery voltage is about 11.98. The voltage across the gauges are
>> > > 6.57 on the original gauge and 7.98 on the reproduction gauge.
>> > >
>> > > On the test bench connected to a bench supply, the original gauge
>> > > reads full at about 6.5V and the reproduction gauge reads full at
>> > > about 7.2V. As I reduce the voltage to the gauge, the reading goes
>> > > down. At 0 volts the gauges read empty.
>> > >
>> > > Per the test specs in Bentley, the gauges should read full at about
>> > > 12V, battery voltage. Both my gauges peg when attached to full battery
>> > > voltage.
>> > >
>> > > I have double checked the wiring against the schematics and all looks
>> > > correct. The circuit looks simple enough. +12V on one side of the
>> > > gauge. The other side of the gauge connects to the sender (5-80 ohms)
>> > > and the other side of the sender connects to ground.
>> > >
>> > > I'm an electrical engineer with lots of experience with simple stuff
>> > > like this and this stuff makes no sense to me. I must be missing
>> > > something. (Kinda like mistaking the wire stripe colors on the turn
>> > > signal)
>> > > Anyone have ideas on what I should be looking for or doing
>> > > differently? I'm stumped. I'm about to build an inverting operational
>> > > amplifier circuit that would drive the gauge so that it would see 0
>> > > volts at empty and about 7V at full.
>> > >
>> > > TIA
>> > > Chris
>> > > 71 Sunroof
>> > > 64DD Kamper Kit
>> > > _______________________________________________
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> --
>
> Dan B
>
>