Relocating the Plate in the FI AFC Unit
by Mark Strand
DETAILED INSTRUCTION FOR RELOCATING THE PLATE IN
THE FI AFC UNIT
- Remove the AFC from the van.
- Carefully pry the black plastic cover from the
aluminum AFC body. This may take some doing. First cut any RTV
sealant from the cap and the aluminum body and then carefully slide
a thin bladed knife in between the cover and the body working your
way around the cover. Don't apply to much force, the idea is to pop
the cover off, not cut if off. At some point with a little
persuasion the cover will come off.
- Orientation: looking into the unit you will see
a white ceramic plate with black resistive nodes on it and the
black resistive coating that the wiper blades travel on. From the
white plate follow the copper wiper arm back to a black nylon part
which indexes the wiper arm assembly to the spindle of the flapper
assembly. The wiper indexing mechanism is attached via a screw to
an aluminum clamp which in turn is attached to the flapper
spindle.
- Look at the black resistive layer that the
copper wipers sweep across. In my case this area was so badly worn
that both contact points had worn the resistive layer off for about
a quarter inch exposing the white ceramic plate (I understand some
wipers only have one contact point). Note which way you must move
the plate in order to gain a good contact surface. If the black
resistive layer appears to be in good condition skip the rest of
the procedures and seal this unit back up.
- Remove the two female lugs, these are from temp
sender I. The wires of which come from under the white resistor
plate.
- Remove the four screws from the AFC electrical
connector assembly and set aside.
- Remove the assembly from the housing using
caution as part of the assembly makes contact with both the wiper
assembly and white ceramic plate.
- Using an xacto knife, scribe the aluminum clamp
on both sides of the black nylon wiper indexing mechanism so you
can return this part to the original location upon
reassembly.
- Remove the screw from the indexing mechanism
and careful remove the wiper index assembly. Set aside.
- Remove one of the screws from the plate and
make note of the orientation of the screw hole in the plate and the
mounting hole in the AFC body as you will most likely need to
relieve some of the material from the plate to facilitate the
relocation. Remove the rest of the screws.
- Remove the ceramic plate assembly. This unit is
not static sensitive so you can handle it with your fingers just
keep them OFF the resistive layer that the wipers rub against. One
other note; DON'T fiddle with the two metal tabs that extend from
and back into the metal plate. These make electrical contact to
ground from the ceramic plate.
- In my case the plate had to be moved far enough
that I had to remove material from one side of the plate as well as
elongate the mounting holes. I used a Dremel Moto Tool to do the
work. Prior to cutting the material away I wrapped the unit in
"Glad" wrap to protect the surface of the resistive layer from
debris and finger oil. Work carefully and slowly so as not to
develop a great amount of heat while grinding the material away.
Remember, the tortoise won against the hair.
- Test fit the assembly to make sure you have
removed enough material.
- Reassemble in reverse order and seal with a
silicone sealant. I chose to use Permatex Ultra Gray because my
past experience is that this stuff seals but if you need to get
back into the part that's sealed it's not a royal PITA. Whatever
you do use this stuff sparingly. You need to seal the unit but
don't cake it on. NOTE: you must seal this up at some point because
a small amount of air will leak through the bearings in the flapper
spindle which will affect the mixture slightly.
That's pretty much it, however when I put mine
back in service the motor leaned way out so I had to move the
indexed thumb wheel as well. In the case of my unit when I loosened
the spring the motor leaned even further. When I tightened the
spring the fuel mixture became richer. I moved my thumb wheel five
notches and everything came back into sync. You must use a CO
meter in order to get this right otherwise you risk burning the
valves with too lean a mixture. This is where the assistance of
a trusted mech comes into play.