Pushing Back the Darkness

Mike explains that "hammer welding" patch panels is really about controlling shrinkage: tack opposite corners, counter the pull with a dolly and hammer, and keep the crown before stitching the seam; he closes by describing true forge hammer welding.

Field notes on using a Miller 185 with a spool gun to weld gussets into magnesium cases---test coupons, filler choices, preheat, and how cold welds snap by hand.

A grab bag of welding hacks: running brazing wire in a MIG, feeding extra filler rod by hand, managing polarity, and dealing with magnetic arc blow while patching thin sheet.

Explains the math for torque-wrench extensions, when crows-feet multiply torque, why socket extensions flex, and how careless cheater bars bend cranks.

Weighs stock, counterweighted, and Type 4 cranks/flywheels, noting forging quality and what counterweights really cure (bending loads and harmonics).

Newbie primer on what the crankshaft does, where it sits between pulley and flywheel, and why line-boring keeps piston thrust aligned.

How to deal with head studs that back out, correct rocker locknut torque, and brutal but effective methods for clearing carbon from intake preheat pipes.

Will Wood's advice on Rabbit EFI swaps: keep factory sensors, budget for bigger injectors/pumps on boosted engines, and use intercoolers so air-cooled heads survive.

Mike's take that Bosch FI is just another carb with feedback---big gains come from a healthy long block and sensors, not gimmicks.

Installing Porsche-style swivel-foot adjusters: relieve the rocker, drill oil passages, shim stands for geometry, and keep the adjusters oiled.

Defines combustion deposits on VW heads/pistons, how to scrape or bead-blast them safely, and why mixture/temperature control is the cure.

Soup-to-nuts CV joint service: mark orientation, clean spotless, use moly grease, torque bolts correctly, and rotate joints intelligently.

Diagnoses valve-geometry/lubrication issues, advising polished contact surfaces, proper shimming, and routed oil so high-lift cams stop chewing parts.

Shows how to make dependable paper/cork gaskets with adhesive, a ball-peen, and light oil so covers seal without store-bought gaskets.

Will Wood explains single vs. dual springs, measuring installed height/coil bind, and matching spring rates to cam profiles.

Stopping sump leaks: flatten the plate, face acorn nuts, glue paper gaskets with Aviation #3, and snug studs gently.

Follow-up notes on shimming springs, matching ramp rates to pressure, and keeping installed pressures in the sweet spot.

A grab bag of shop-floor wisdom, from improvised engine stands to Magnafluxing used cranks before reassembly.

How to check pushrods, cams, and cranks for runout using glass, V-blocks, and dial indicators, including VW wear limits.

Justifies velocity stacks on dual carbs: smooths airflow and captures the fuel cloud hovering above the venturi for better mixture.

Shows how to tap and Loctite a spark-plug insert with the engine still in the car: work the tap in slowly, clean chips off with cutting oil, lock the insert to a sacrificed plug, and let the epoxy cure before backing the plug out.

Story and how-to on rebuilding front seats with carpet-store foam, salvaged scraps of naugahyde, and sailmaker needles, ending with firm seats for under $5 plus slip covers.

Explains cheap ways to check deck height and rod balance: use pipe spacers in place of the head, pull the jug down with nuts, lay a straightedge over the cylinder, and gauge clearance while verifying wrist-pin fits.

Answers the follow-up question about shimming rocker shafts for swivel-foot adjusters---yes, expect longer pushrods or more screw extension, so plan geometry before final assembly.

Part two of the valve-train-geometry series describing how to shim rocker stands so the adjuster crosses the valve-stem center, why swivel feet help, and how to set each rocker before springs go on.

Looks at the stock rocker box tolerances: offset rockers only spin two valves, springs and posts tie up the others, so geometry tweaks are needed before the adjuster will sweep the stems evenly.

Walks through prepping a full-flow oil pump---plugging the stock outlet, grinding the housing to match the cover, lapping the cheap aluminum plate flat, and checking gear protrusion before plumbing the external filter.

Defends the VW oil-bath air cleaner by comparing it to a centrifuge: repeated right-angle turns and the oil trough fling dirt out of the airstream long before it reaches the carb throat.

Explains crankcase mayonaise: water from combustion and cold air condense inside unless the stock ventilation hoses pull a vacuum, which also boils off moisture, reduces leaks, and keeps the filler cap clean.

Camshaft primer for a mild 1600: calculates CFM demand, references Bill Fisher's data, talks gear ratios, and cautions that the rest of the combo (dual ports, exhaust, distributor) matters more than a wild cam.

Describes the oil circuit through lifters, hollow pushrods, rocker shafts, and adjusters, and warns to keep tolerances tight and passages spotless because that oil is what cools the valves.

First installment of the VTG series: measuring cam lift to spot reground cams, understanding duration numbers, and treating the engine as a self-powered air compressor that needs accurate data.

Cold-weather starting advice---check CCA and grounds, remember thick 30/40 weight acts like peanut butter at 0°F, and switch to multi-vis oil or pre-heat to ease cranking on a fresh rebuild.

Diary entry from a parts run: $100 truck-stop oil changes, buying swivel feet at the 'FLAPS', and laughing at his brother's poorly vented van that somehow still runs.

Short note acknowledging the adjuster probably needs a slight offset and promising to run more tests before finishing the valve-geometry write-up.

Robert King's reply: rocker geometry should have the adjuster centered at half-lift and you fix it with rocker height or pushrod length---so check it any time the heads or case are machined.

Detailed look at rocker/valve alignment: measure stem height, shim or mill posts, use bluing and light springs to watch the adjuster sweep across the stem, and fix anything that isn't centered.

Explains how to use a dwell/tach meter---from hooking up the leads, calibrating the gauge, checking points continuity, and reading rpm or dwell without being intimidated by the extra wires.

Reveals the 'military secret' solvent for rust and carbon (hot water plus detergent), joking about sodium metasilicate but ultimately reminding us that heated soap-and-water baths melt rust better than miracle chemicals.

Talks gauge accuracy: remote senders need a master gauge for calibration, best accuracy occurs near 60% of scale, and temperature senders can be checked in ice and boiling water.

CC'ing heads properly---light grease, consistent pressure on the plexi plate, and reusing the same valves in each chamber can tighten volumes to within a quarter cc.

Another road story: helping stranded motorists, recounting a snowy climb up Greyback Mountain in a Beetle, and how easily the car slid into a ditch while chasing 'VW karma'.

Answers how much cylinder-height mismatch a head will tolerate (~.015 in), stresses pairing jugs of similar height, and warns that misalignment just warps the heads and wastes torque.

Case-study from a reader who blew an oil galley plug in --12°F weather; Mike explains where the plugs hide, why 40-weight is useless in that cold, and suggests dropping the engine plus switching to thinner oil and proper warm-ups.

A fluff piece on visiting the Beagle Sky Ranch, spotting homebuilt planes running VW engines, and marveling at the 'Jesus nut' that keeps the prop's gearbox hanging on.

Logs the measurement of head heights on 'Ol' Thrasher', showing how mismatched rods, spacers, and heads can vary by .012 in and why rebuilding with used parts is a patience test.

Hand-holding guide for using a strobe timing light: highlight the pulley notches, hook the inductive clamp to #1, power it up, warm the engine, and keep wires clear of rotating bits.

Recommends abrasive belt sticks as modern replacements for flat files---cheap plastic holders with various grits that stay sharp and can reach tight spots without rusting.

Defines the 'dummy jug'---a sacrificial cylinder and piston used for lapping head sealing surfaces, checking deck heights, and test-fitting rods without scuffing new parts.

Provides drill-size equivalents for jet numbers and a formula (liters × rpm ÷ 56.64) to estimate carb CFM needs before you start hogging out jets.

Reminder that any air leak---pushrod tubes, valve stems, loose heads---upsets mixture, causes backfires, and overheating, so the whole engine must be sealed, not just the intake.

How to hand-tap and install an exhaust-stud insert in situ: use an oiled plug tap, clean chips constantly, lock the insert to a sacrificial plug, glue it with Loctite, and let it cure before backing the plug out.

Explains how two-way and three-way catalytic converters use platinum, palladium, and rhodium plus oxygen to oxidize HC/CO and reduce NOx---and why unleaded fuel and closed-loop mixture control are mandatory.

Points control dwell time; when they open the coil fires, so wrong gaps act like retarded/advanced timing and weak spark---set dwell with a meter, don't just trust the feeler gauge.

Tom David retracts his 'junk cam' sizing tip: VW cam gears use involute contact, so worn flanks make gear numbers meaningless---use new gears and proper measuring instead.

Step-by-step valve lapping: strip the head, apply compound, spin the valve with a suction stick, clean, verify an even grey ring with layout blue, and repeat until each seat seals.

Crankcase ventilation discussion: VW designed slight vacuum through the pulley boot and breather; removing hoses or adding sand seals traps moisture, makes mayo, and blows oil.

Shows how pistons, rods, jugs, and spacers each vary a few thousandths; stacking them wisely keeps compression ratios balanced instead of letting tolerances pile up.

Primer on the ignition coil: it's a transformer that builds 20kV while the points are closed, dumps it when they open, and needs correct polarity, condensers, and supply voltage to avoid misfire.

A cautionary tale about corroded power-strip sockets: moisture and temperature swings plate connectors just like dirty spade lugs on a car, so clean and tighten them if electrons misbehave.

Real-world piston balancing: some Mahle slugs were 130 grains overweight, so Mike spent hours drilling and rasping nubs---plan time because some sets aren't simple scraper jobs.

Jeff Diebolt translates metric wire sizes to AWG, listing circular-mil areas and a quick rule of thumb (10 ga ≈30A, 12 ga ≈20A, etc.) so repairs aren't undersized.

Intro to wire ampacity: VW diagrams list wire mm²; Mike gives approximate amp limits, jokes about midnight wiper fixes, and reminds us that fuses should match wire, not fashion.

Describes ranking pistons by height using a plate and screw (or calipers) so you can pair long and short pistons properly before balancing deck height.

Shoestring rod balancing: compare center-to-center lengths using gudgeon pins and straightedges, then improvise a balance beam to match rotating weights without fancy fixtures.

Vacuum gauge diagnostics: a steady 18--22 inHg means healthy, 15 suggests late timing, lower steady readings mean valve timing issues, and wild needles hint at leaks---interpretation is the hard part.

'Old woman' rocker rebuild: scrub everything, deburr, flip shafts, replace tired wavy washers, make sure oil drillings are clear, and reassemble with assembly grease.

Demystifies L-Jetronic: it's just a carb split into sensors and injectors---you need a VOM, fuel/vacuum gauges, coffee can for injector spray tests, and patience, not fear.

Describes the VW gear oil pump as the engine's heart, comparing it to industrial pumps and stressing that tight clearances (and flat covers) are what make pressure.

Begins a story-driven distributor primer---calling it the engine's brain---and sets up future discussion of mechanical vs vacuum advance by recalling Navy regulator tales.

Clarifies terminology: in VW math the engine is a two-stroke (per power event) four-cycle, and 'stroke' mostly matters in the PLAN/33,000 horsepower formula.

Explains valve overlap: the exhaust's inertia and slight intake opening at TDC cool the valve and help scavenging; without backpressure you can actually pull mixture right out the port.

'The Gates of Hell' essay describing how exhaust valves see 1300--1800°F, slam shut hundreds of times per second, get almost no cooling, and why sloppy guides ruin them.

Defines vapor lock realistically---heat soaks the lines, fuel boils, and the pump sucks air---and suggests replacing the tank screen, using thinner oil, or preheating instead of buying a new tank.

Navy anecdote on 'gas cuts': superheated steam leaks carve grooves in steel just like exhaust leaks eat heads, so don't ignore even tiny jets.

Basic cams/valves/exhaust lesson: hydraulic lifters have different ramps, lash affects torque vs top end, and choosing cams means knowing your combo, not just trends.

Short reminder that missing valve-stem seals or sloppy guides suck oil and wreck emissions---install the cheap seals and keep guides tight.

Explains valve-train geometry: use light springs and bluing to ensure the adjuster sweeps across the valve-stem centerline at half lift by shimming rockers or altering pushrod length.

Notes from measuring head volumes and cylinder heights while chasing higher compression, plus a quick calculation of mean effective pressure from Hot VW's dyno data.

Musings on burn rates and smog: stoichiometric mixtures, octane, pressure, and temperature all affect NOx---more thought experiment than how-to, but food for tuning minds.

Smoothing the sharp 'window' edges in single-port heads with carbide burrs and a Dremel so the patch actually flows before you ever dream about dual ports.

A chat about journal bearings: why VW rods ride on an oil wedge, how the fluid films carry thousands of PSI, and why friction isn't what kills cases---dirt and neglect do.

Plain-language primer on what a carb really does, from boiling fuel with venturi vacuum to why icing happens and why those mysterious screws actually matter.

Runs the math on piston crown area, bullet-like acceleration, and the flat spots in crank rotation that make a VW feel civil even with 3,000 pounds pushing on the crown.

Love letter to the 'noble screw' while explaining VW head studs, sizes, and why you can't just finger-tighten them unless you plan on arm-wrestling Mike.

Tool talk for port-and-polish work---burr selection, Dremel speeds, sanding bobbins, and all the ways to avoid ruining a head while chasing smoother runners.

Crankcase ventilation discussion: VW designed slight vacuum through the pulley boot and breather; removing hoses or adding sand seals traps moisture, makes mayo, and blows oil.

Outlines the 'big three' pollutants (HC/CO/NOx), how EGR/air pumps/cats juggle them, and why fixing one number always threatens another.

Explains why even tiny VW flywheels still store energy, average out piston pulses, cushion driveline shocks, and keep you from pegging 6,000 rpm every time you sneeze.

Cleaning an old case: strip the aluminum oxide, fill pits with JB Weld, deburr every galley, and lap the sealing faces so the rebuilt engine actually stays dry.

Story time from the Oregon woods---swapping truck gearboxes, tripping over Gulf War surplus generators, and marveling at oddball VW piston/air-cooled hybrids in a shed.

Step-by-step on drilling and tapping a case for full-flow oiling, blueprinting the pump, and lapping every surface until the cover actually seals.

Weekend fluff column about a machine-shop buddy sliding from dune buggies toward stock restos while hoarding catalogs and trading VW bodies.

Reminds a hydraulic-lifter dreamer that even new Mexican long blocks need regular wrenching---DIY maintenance beats trusting mystery rebuilders.

Warns that DIY big-valve heads require mills, new seats, and staking tools---cheaper to buy Berg castings unless you like pounding seats in your kitchen oven.

How-to on removing and installing studs with double nuts, penetrating oil, and Loctite, plus notes on step-studs when exhaust threads strip.

Distributor cleaning checklist: pull the breaker plate, free the weights, lube the pivots, mind the ground braid, and oil the felt so advance mechanisms actually move.

Oil-change philosophy session---3,000 miles is cheap insurance, filters help but oxidation still counts, and Detroit's long intervals were sell-more-cars marketing.

Mike explains that refineries swap between summer and winter gasoline blends: oxygenated winter fuel is lighter, makes less power, and changes density so a tune that was fine in July can go rich in December.

Suggests how to adapt junkyard seats into a Bug: keep the VW sliders, mock up with lumber, then weld pedestals once you find a winter project worth the bruises.

Mixing your own 100-octane: a laundromat conversation about adding toluene to premium so a 13.5:1 big-block stops pinging---use formulas, not guesses.

Explains a single-person engine hoist trick using a pipe across the hatch, a crank handle, and rope 'brakes' for lifting a Type 4 drivetrain into a truck bed.

Uses for old brake drums: turn them into anvils, BBQ pits, or yard art---because VW drums multiply in sheds if you don't repurpose them.

Mike catalogues AS21 vs AS41 cases, the pros/cons of magnesium alloys, and which casting numbers to chase when shopping for cores.

Robert Kuhn's ongoing oil-temp saga---Fluke thermometers prove his SunPro sender runs 10--15°F low, even on 100°F days, and he's eyeing a Berg dipstick.

Jim Thompson maps every hose on a dual-diaphragm distributor: which port is advance, which is retard, and how to cap the throttle-positioner fittings on 34PICT carbs.

Explains the dual-circuit brake warning switch: twin pistons, equalized pressure, and why mismatched circuits light the dash lamp when a leak shifts the shuttle.

Nick Pace's long-block swap checklist for a '71 Bus---what nuts to pull, which jacks to use, and the order that keeps tin, wires, and heater parts straight.

Ric Campbell explains IRS rear camber adjustment by rotating the trailing arm on its pivot and, if slammed, elongating the spring-plate holes for zero camber.

More Baby oil-temp logs: Las Vegas road trip readings show the SunPro gauge underreports by ~15°F when checked against a Fluke at multiple probe points.

Earlier dispatch from the same saga---San Diego heatwave measurements prove the tee-mounted sender is close, just consistently low, so calibration beats panic.

Joe Perez sermonizes on tire size, gearing, and horsepower: taller rear tires change the effective final drive and can leave a VW out of breath at highway speeds.

Russ Maak reprints Peterson's primer on centrifugal-only advance systems---manual levers are gone because engines need automatic timing as rpm rises.

Part two of Russ's spark-advance article, covering vacuum-only and dual-advance distributors, why stacked systems improve drivability, and how they evolved from manual levers.

Michael Jones' thermodynamics primer on VW bus heaters: maximize Delta-T, increase airflow, insulate ducting, or add a gas heater because Canada stays cold regardless.

Joe Perez's sermon on 'Our Most Holy Distributor,' explaining coils, dwell, vacuum cans, and why centrifugal advance exists so the spark keeps up with rpm.

Michael Jones' crash course on Bosch alternators---how the charging light excites the field, why new brushes rarely fix a melted diode trio, and what to check with a meter.

Michael Jones' distributor rebuild walkthrough: tear down the vacuum/centrifugal guts, polish pivots, oil the felt, and reassemble so timing stays stable.

Joe Petty's 'VW Fun -- Texas Style' tale of hustling a black '59 single cab around a parking lot in reverse and proving a VW can out-scare pickups without trying.

Ken Hooper's 'Engine Swaps - the Boys are Back in Town' nostalgia about cramming Buick V6s and Volvo radiators into Bugs before sanity prevailed.

Cal Grant's quick bleeding lesson: gravity feed, pump-and-hold, or use a Mighty-Vac---whatever you choose, don't suck air back through the threads.

Robert Kuhn's steering-wheel column drop: loosen the clamp, tug the column, and mind the turn-signal cancel ring so the new wheel sits straight.

Steven Dolan explains dwell/tach combo meters, calibration knobs, and how they make set-point timing far easier than watching a feeler gauge.

Sean's follow-up on reading aftermarket dwell/tach gauges accurately by understanding the scales and where to clip the inductive lead.

Frank Klein on Baja drivetrain math: tire diameter, gear ratios, and why a properly set-up Baja still relies on shock tuning and torque lining, not just big tires.

John Siple's 'Reasons to get another bus' list reminding us that camping fantasies, spare engines, or simply because a bus waved back all justify another purchase.

BudWil's recipe for German Silver Metallic paint pulled from VW literature so your restorer doesn't guess at the color chip.

Clara's windshield swap tutorial: pull the trim, use strong cord, seat the gasket, and have helpers so you don't snap the pricey glass.

Tom David's engine break-in letter---vary rpm, don't baby it, dump the oil early, and remember the cam/lifters need splash oil immediately.

Gregory Daughtry's musings on VW karma: help stranded owners, throw cash at their coffee can, and the universe will repay you with garage space.

Holiday Bus Songs: a goofy sing-along sheet for the list, because nothing says Christmas like rhyming 'heater boxes' with 'Santa's sockses.'

Michael Butler's alternate 'Coil n' Points' essay reminding that clean connections, proper ballast, and good grounds are the only reason points last.

'Random Acts of Stupidity' is a list of cautionary tales---forgetting the drain plug, leaving the fuel line loose---and an open call for better titles.

1958 VW junkyard rescue! Gregory Merritt recounts chasing down a derelict split-window, bribing the owner, and dragging it home before the crusher.

Robert Kuhn's earlier oil-temp saga entry, comparing pan temps vs. tee-mounted senders to prove his SunPro gauge reads 10--15°F low.

Hanno Spoelstra's primer on running air-cooled engines on LPG---jetting, ignition timing, tank placement, and why propane keeps heads cooler.

Dennis Farr on 'Replacing the oil cooler'---pull the shroud, don't drop the seals, torque the studs evenly, and double-check for leaks before sealing the tin.

Will Wood's 'Exhaust Gas Analysis' letter listing sniffer numbers and what high CO/HC/O2 readings say about jetting and leaks.

John Kronkaitis's oil cooler replacement tip: inspect the doghouse stand, reseal with new grommets, and don't pinch the exit duct when reinstalling tin.

Thomas David's gasoline formulation notes---winter blends, RVP, and why highway mileage tanks when the refineries switch to cold-weather mixes.

Ken Hooper's 'Proper Compression Test' instructions: warm engine, prop the throttle, crank with a strong battery, and record numbers dry and wet.

Jim summarized valve-adjustment steps: .006 in on a cold engine, quarter-turn the crank counterclockwise per cylinder, and always use new cork gaskets.

Bruce Hamilton's exhaustive gasoline FAQ (1995) covering crude origins, refining, oxygenates, emissions laws, and octane ratings for the chemically curious.

'German Motoring Phrases' humor sheet full of fake Teutonic terms like Die BlinkenLeitein Tickentocken and FlippinFlappenschitspreader.