[T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)

[accessys at smart.net]

ok  I have auto tranny bus but always when possible pull engine alone 
without tranny

oil filler has to go as does coil. to get clearance

I use a low profile transmission jack which will tilt and pan etc.

get lower studs in and start raising rear of engine a bit, push a bit 
raise a bit, push a bit continue.  if it does not slide all the way home 
DON"T FORCE IT, find out what is hanging. one thing that has kept mine 
from  seating is not getting accelerator linkage fully thru opening (this 
may be auto tranny only issue)
problem is not likely in the bell housing area but rather some other place 
check clearances all the way round the engine.  a piece of tin will often 
hang up.

might need to remove the hanger bolts from tranny and lower it a few 
inches to get a straight in for the engine.  don't have to take tranny out 
just put jack under it and lower it an inch or three. although you 
shouldn't have to do this.

the 71 with the removable rear metal was great for pulling engine, just 
straight back..

obviously something is hanging up, use bright flashlight and look all 
around top and bottom. but shouldn't have to ever force them together.

good luck
Bob





On Wed, 5 Nov 2014, Michael wrote:

> Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2014 09:04:31 -0500
> From: Michael <muts at verizon.net>
> To: type2 at type2.com
> Subject: [T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)
> 
> In daughter's 75 bus, we pulled the engine for a clutch redo- In the past 
> after engine redo at Jon's Motors we pulled it to replace a trans, but then 
> pulled them together.  Easy reinstall, but all that removal of axles, shift 
> stuff....
>   The bus was driven onto 3 2X8's nailed to form a ramp.  Front is jacked up 
> to get bus level again. Using a motorcycle jack was easy, had to remove all 
> the top stuff on the engine, even the coil, and then that @&(^&$$# oil fill 
> pipe- it rubs on the body beam behind the engine when you pull back far 
> enough to clear transhaft.  With trans mounted above, you cannot easily let 
> it down as on our 71 bus.  As engine came out, we had to change the angle of 
> the bus (let front down) to clear the beam as we pulled/jacked down.  After 
> clutch redo (think the o-ring in flywheel was flat, letting oil to clutch) I 
> decided to replace /inspect clutch cable.  Then I noticed cable from PEX that 
> BusDepot sells was much thinner than what was there or that Italian one I had 
> gotten years before as spare for our 78 camper. Old thicker one looked fine, 
> length was same so it was put back with lots of grease.
>   Reinstall was done using that $59 aluminum jack from Harbor Freight, as it 
> sits lower to ground and still can be jacked high enough with bus on the 4.5" 
> ramp.  Unlike the motorcycle jack it is easier to tip engine if needed. The 
> usual slide engine under bus, use digging bar on a fulcrum of 6x6 deck beam 
> cutoff to lift one side under BALANCE POINT of engine and insert a $x4 piece 
> under heater box.  Repeat other side. Lift again with 2x4 on fulcrum, etc 
> until engine was up enough to  slide jack under with a plyboard hunk under 
> engine to protect fins/strainer plate. Again the oil fill pipe was an issue- 
> it hits the beam and you must goof around tipping engine back as you slide 
> forward at right height to let shaft enter center of clutch release plate. 
> Very vexing, as I laid underneath calling out "Left, right" and noting center 
> of shaft before friend could push- and watching when lower studs on trans 
> enter the engine holes, the angle must be adjusted to get things parallel. 
> Then we couldn't push any more- turned engine, etc but it was over 1/2" short 
> so no bolt ends showed.  Pretty sure clutch splines were on shaft, as you 
> could turn engine and it binds when in gear.  At 70 yr old, this was enough 
> for me- I slid a ground down carriage bolt above starter and a capbolt on 
> other side each `1.5" longer than stock, and friend got the nuts on to start 
> pulling in engine.  Then rubbing was noted (due to angle as lower bolts were 
> not pulling in)  Quit- now I may try lowering front of bus so weight of 
> engine will pull lower studs in?.  Arrgghhh
> -- 
> MUTS Oboe/EH support = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver
> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
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