[T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)

[Jim Denton]

I always lift the rear of the bus about 6" higher than the front and then I
lower the engine and tranny until the unit is level before pulling the
engine back.  I do first remove the coil and filler pipe, and the two bolts
supporting the bellhousing and my centermounted carb.  All the tin stays in
place.  Going back in is a straight shot I just put my feet against the
engine and shove, most of the time I don't even have to try and turn the
engine it just goes.

On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 7:16 AM, <accessys at smart.net> wrote:

>
> ok  I have auto tranny bus but always when possible pull engine alone
> without tranny
>
> oil filler has to go as does coil. to get clearance
>
> I use a low profile transmission jack which will tilt and pan etc.
>
> get lower studs in and start raising rear of engine a bit, push a bit
> raise a bit, push a bit continue.  if it does not slide all the way home
> DON"T FORCE IT, find out what is hanging. one thing that has kept mine
> from  seating is not getting accelerator linkage fully thru opening (this
> may be auto tranny only issue)
> problem is not likely in the bell housing area but rather some other place
> check clearances all the way round the engine.  a piece of tin will often
> hang up.
>
> might need to remove the hanger bolts from tranny and lower it a few
> inches to get a straight in for the engine.  don't have to take tranny out
> just put jack under it and lower it an inch or three. although you
> shouldn't have to do this.
>
> the 71 with the removable rear metal was great for pulling engine, just
> straight back..
>
> obviously something is hanging up, use bright flashlight and look all
> around top and bottom. but shouldn't have to ever force them together.
>
> good luck
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 5 Nov 2014, Michael wrote:
>
>  Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2014 09:04:31 -0500
>> From: Michael <muts at verizon.net>
>> To: type2 at type2.com
>> Subject: [T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)
>>
>>
>> In daughter's 75 bus, we pulled the engine for a clutch redo- In the past
>> after engine redo at Jon's Motors we pulled it to replace a trans, but then
>> pulled them together.  Easy reinstall, but all that removal of axles, shift
>> stuff....
>>   The bus was driven onto 3 2X8's nailed to form a ramp.  Front is jacked
>> up to get bus level again. Using a motorcycle jack was easy, had to remove
>> all the top stuff on the engine, even the coil, and then that @&(^&$$# oil
>> fill pipe- it rubs on the body beam behind the engine when you pull back
>> far enough to clear transhaft.  With trans mounted above, you cannot easily
>> let it down as on our 71 bus.  As engine came out, we had to change the
>> angle of the bus (let front down) to clear the beam as we pulled/jacked
>> down.  After clutch redo (think the o-ring in flywheel was flat, letting
>> oil to clutch) I decided to replace /inspect clutch cable.  Then I noticed
>> cable from PEX that BusDepot sells was much thinner than what was there or
>> that Italian one I had gotten years before as spare for our 78 camper. Old
>> thicker one looked fine, length was same so it was put back with lots of
>> grease.
>>   Reinstall was done using that $59 aluminum jack from Harbor Freight, as
>> it sits lower to ground and still can be jacked high enough with bus on the
>> 4.5" ramp.  Unlike the motorcycle jack it is easier to tip engine if
>> needed. The usual slide engine under bus, use digging bar on a fulcrum of
>> 6x6 deck beam cutoff to lift one side under BALANCE POINT of engine and
>> insert a $x4 piece under heater box.  Repeat other side. Lift again with
>> 2x4 on fulcrum, etc until engine was up enough to  slide jack under with a
>> plyboard hunk under engine to protect fins/strainer plate. Again the oil
>> fill pipe was an issue- it hits the beam and you must goof around tipping
>> engine back as you slide forward at right height to let shaft enter center
>> of clutch release plate. Very vexing, as I laid underneath calling out
>> "Left, right" and noting center of shaft before friend could push- and
>> watching when lower studs on trans enter the engine holes, the angle must
>> be adjusted to get things parallel. Then we couldn't push any more- turned
>> engine, etc but it was over 1/2" short so no bolt ends showed.  Pretty sure
>> clutch splines were on shaft, as you could turn engine and it binds when in
>> gear.  At 70 yr old, this was enough for me- I slid a ground down carriage
>> bolt above starter and a capbolt on other side each `1.5" longer than
>> stock, and friend got the nuts on to start pulling in engine.  Then rubbing
>> was noted (due to angle as lower bolts were not pulling in)  Quit- now I
>> may try lowering front of bus so weight of engine will pull lower studs
>> in?.  Arrgghhh
>> --
>> MUTS Oboe/EH support = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver
>> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
>> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
>> _______________________________________________
>> type2 mailing list
>> type2 at type2.com
>> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> type2 mailing list
> type2 at type2.com
> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
>