[T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)

[accessys at smart.net]

I pull the rear three pieces of tin but mainly for convienence not because 
it is needed, and since I have taken them off enough times the screws come 
out easy

Bob

On Wed, 5 Nov 2014, Jim Denton wrote:

> Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2014 08:28:15 -0800
> From: Jim Denton <2thingswild at gmail.com>
> To: Bob carroll <accessys at smart.net>
> Cc: Michael <muts at verizon.net>, "type2 at type2.com" <type2 at type2.com>
> Subject: Re: [T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)
> 
> I always lift the rear of the bus about 6" higher than the front and then I
> lower the engine and tranny until the unit is level before pulling the
> engine back.  I do first remove the coil and filler pipe, and the two bolts
> supporting the bellhousing and my centermounted carb.  All the tin stays in
> place.  Going back in is a straight shot I just put my feet against the
> engine and shove, most of the time I don't even have to try and turn the
> engine it just goes.
>
> On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 7:16 AM, <accessys at smart.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> ok  I have auto tranny bus but always when possible pull engine alone
>> without tranny
>>
>> oil filler has to go as does coil. to get clearance
>>
>> I use a low profile transmission jack which will tilt and pan etc.
>>
>> get lower studs in and start raising rear of engine a bit, push a bit
>> raise a bit, push a bit continue.  if it does not slide all the way home
>> DON"T FORCE IT, find out what is hanging. one thing that has kept mine
>> from  seating is not getting accelerator linkage fully thru opening (this
>> may be auto tranny only issue)
>> problem is not likely in the bell housing area but rather some other place
>> check clearances all the way round the engine.  a piece of tin will often
>> hang up.
>>
>> might need to remove the hanger bolts from tranny and lower it a few
>> inches to get a straight in for the engine.  don't have to take tranny out
>> just put jack under it and lower it an inch or three. although you
>> shouldn't have to do this.
>>
>> the 71 with the removable rear metal was great for pulling engine, just
>> straight back..
>>
>> obviously something is hanging up, use bright flashlight and look all
>> around top and bottom. but shouldn't have to ever force them together.
>>
>> good luck
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, 5 Nov 2014, Michael wrote:
>>
>>  Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2014 09:04:31 -0500
>>> From: Michael <muts at verizon.net>
>>> To: type2 at type2.com
>>> Subject: [T2] Vexing pull/reinstall of 75 engine (first FI)
>>>
>>>
>>> In daughter's 75 bus, we pulled the engine for a clutch redo- In the past
>>> after engine redo at Jon's Motors we pulled it to replace a trans, but then
>>> pulled them together.  Easy reinstall, but all that removal of axles, shift
>>> stuff....
>>>   The bus was driven onto 3 2X8's nailed to form a ramp.  Front is jacked
>>> up to get bus level again. Using a motorcycle jack was easy, had to remove
>>> all the top stuff on the engine, even the coil, and then that @&(^&$$# oil
>>> fill pipe- it rubs on the body beam behind the engine when you pull back
>>> far enough to clear transhaft.  With trans mounted above, you cannot easily
>>> let it down as on our 71 bus.  As engine came out, we had to change the
>>> angle of the bus (let front down) to clear the beam as we pulled/jacked
>>> down.  After clutch redo (think the o-ring in flywheel was flat, letting
>>> oil to clutch) I decided to replace /inspect clutch cable.  Then I noticed
>>> cable from PEX that BusDepot sells was much thinner than what was there or
>>> that Italian one I had gotten years before as spare for our 78 camper. Old
>>> thicker one looked fine, length was same so it was put back with lots of
>>> grease.
>>>   Reinstall was done using that $59 aluminum jack from Harbor Freight, as
>>> it sits lower to ground and still can be jacked high enough with bus on the
>>> 4.5" ramp.  Unlike the motorcycle jack it is easier to tip engine if
>>> needed. The usual slide engine under bus, use digging bar on a fulcrum of
>>> 6x6 deck beam cutoff to lift one side under BALANCE POINT of engine and
>>> insert a $x4 piece under heater box.  Repeat other side. Lift again with
>>> 2x4 on fulcrum, etc until engine was up enough to  slide jack under with a
>>> plyboard hunk under engine to protect fins/strainer plate. Again the oil
>>> fill pipe was an issue- it hits the beam and you must goof around tipping
>>> engine back as you slide forward at right height to let shaft enter center
>>> of clutch release plate. Very vexing, as I laid underneath calling out
>>> "Left, right" and noting center of shaft before friend could push- and
>>> watching when lower studs on trans enter the engine holes, the angle must
>>> be adjusted to get things parallel. Then we couldn't push any more- turned
>>> engine, etc but it was over 1/2" short so no bolt ends showed.  Pretty sure
>>> clutch splines were on shaft, as you could turn engine and it binds when in
>>> gear.  At 70 yr old, this was enough for me- I slid a ground down carriage
>>> bolt above starter and a capbolt on other side each `1.5" longer than
>>> stock, and friend got the nuts on to start pulling in engine.  Then rubbing
>>> was noted (due to angle as lower bolts were not pulling in)  Quit- now I
>>> may try lowering front of bus so weight of engine will pull lower studs
>>> in?.  Arrgghhh
>>> --
>>> MUTS Oboe/EH support = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver
>>> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
>>> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> type2 at type2.com
>>> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
>>>
>>>
>>
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