[T2] Electrical problems

[ka1dza]

Hi Justin,

 

I let the bus AND weather cool down for while before getting back to the
bus. I pulled all the wiring off all the exterior lights and am using a VO
meter to check connections according to the Bentley book.

 

I get .0000 continuity between the ground and #58 on both parking lights
with the battery disconnected. It doesn't seem like there should be any
continuity there at all.

 

 

  _____  

From: JUSTIN SHELLENBERGER (RIT Student) [mailto:jxs8908 at rit.edu] 
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2016 4:41 PM
To: Bob Pratt
Subject: Re: [T2] Electrical problems

 

Looking at the wiring diagram that Richard Palmer linked to you shows no
connection from the rear side marker M12 to the turn signal switch E2 so it
won't be part of the flashing circuit. Coming out of the turn signal switch
you have a 5 pin connector that connects to your 4 directional bulbs and
also has three connections to the emergency flasher switch E3. Two of those
connections go to the front turn signal bulbs and the third goes to the
emergency flasher relay J2 which then triggers the rear lights through the
white wire to go back to the emergency flasher switch before being split to
the two rear lights 54F on E3. Likewise 54 goes to the two brake switches
others have mentioned. When you press the brake switch it should go between
a lower voltage running light and a higher voltage brake light state. I've
got a lot of gardening to tend to today, but hopefully that gives you some
ideas.

 

On 25 June 2016 at 14:30, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:

BTW.... The brake light still don't work.

Bob Pratt


On Jun 22, 2016, at 3:07 PM, JUSTIN SHELLENBERGER (RIT Student)
<jxs8908 at rit.edu> wrote:

Ok, can you pull the front turn signal bulbs and then try the 4-way flasher?
As I recall you said the turn signals work, correct? I am thinking that with
the front turn signals out of the circuit you will get some response from
the rear bulbs.

 

On 22 June 2016 at 14:10, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:

Hi Justin,

The '71 rear bulb holder for the brake lights, etc is a single bulb holder
on top and blank on the bottom.

Here is a photo....<image1.JPG>

Bob Pratt


On Jun 22, 2016, at 11:21 AM, JUSTIN SHELLENBERGER (RIT Student)
<jxs8908 at rit.edu> wrote:

Bob, I think the other light in that picture is for the rear fog option.
Ignoring the bulb holder on the right side does the left side of the picture
look the same? Something like this?
<http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0236/7951/products/casey_tails_-_2_1024x10
24.jpg?v=1449038868>  Or am I completely off on what the '71 tail light
looks like?

 

On 22 June 2016 at 10:52, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:

Hi Justin,

No I don't have the same rear light housing. It's got one bulb.

Bob Pratt


On Jun 22, 2016, at 10:20 AM, JUSTIN SHELLENBERGER (RIT Student)
<jxs8908 at rit.edu> wrote:

Hey Bob,

 

>From what I can recall from doing tail light troubleshooting a few years ago
there were a few problems that I ran in to. Firstly, your bus has holders
that look like this
<http://www.vwvintageparts.com/product_images/i/560/Euro62-71BH__67552_zoom.
jpg>  yes? It looks like your ground connection is riveted to the housing.
Have you ensured that this has not come loose and you are getting increased
resistance to ground there? Do you have a multimeter? You could pick up a
cheapie, but I would recommend a quality unit as wiring issues are going to
be a fairly common maintenance item on any electronics of this vintage.

 

I also would like to point out noalox seems to be an anti-oxidation surface
treatment for aluminum, I think all of the connections here should be
steel-steel so a regular dielectric grease would have sealed the connections
just as well.

 

Regards,

 

Justin

 

On 21 June 2016 at 19:58, Harris Pat <sammler.permanent at gmail.com> wrote:

Joining this late - hope I'm not repeating.
My 71 has factory wiring which is not 100% correct according to Bentley but
has a minor bit shown for 72.

Check the number of terminals you SHOULD have on key switch as well as the
headlight switch. DPO may have replaced it with
an incorrect one.

For easy access you can remove the 4 screws from the instrument panel and
disconnect speedometer cable. Panel can be pulled out a bit for access. Will
see if I can send a pic.
Good luck,
Pat




Sent from my iPhone


> On Jun 21, 2016, at 18:14, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> I have a '71 bus with the two filament bulb. The dimmer side is the
taillight. Yup, the taillights work. The turn signal switch is new.
>
> Bob Pratt
>
>> On Jun 21, 2016, at 2:45 PM, dchase2001 <dchase2001 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I misspoke - it depends on what year you have. My 75 has a separate turn
signal light. So the tail and brake work together in a 2 filament bulb. But
the turn and 4 way are there own bulb.  Older models had combined
tail/brake/turn
>>
>>> On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 1:10 PM, dchase2001 <dchase2001 at gmail.com>
wrote:
>>> Do the turn signals work in the rear?
>>> My recollection is that the brake, 4-way and turn signal all use the
same filament in the bulb - tail uses the other less bright filament.
>>> The brake, turn, 4-way circuit goes thru the turn signal switch.
>>> Assuming you have dual filament bulbs installed.
>>>
>>>> On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 3:43 PM, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net> wrote:
>>>> Yup, the tail lights work. The indicator light on the flasher works
too.
>>>>
>>>> Bob Pratt
>>>>
>>>>> On Jun 20, 2016, at 3:27 PM, Richard Palmer <richard at teamspatula.com>
wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> do the tail lights work? That should help narrow it down...
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 3:25 PM, Bob Pratt <ka1dza at verizon.net>
wrote:
>>>>>> Here is an updated list of things I've done to get my bus inspected.
I've repeated things for those who have not seen this befor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The 4 way flashers only work in the front. I've replaced the bulbs in
the rear. I've replaced the 4 way flasher switch. And I've cleaned each
ground connection down to bright metal, cleaned the screws on a wire wheel,
and applied "Noalox" on all of the electrical connections.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 2. The brake lights don't work. Along with some the things I did in
#1, I bled the master cylinder, and checked the continuity across the
pressure switch. I get continuity. I've ordered new switches just in case.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 3. The oil light on the dash won't work. I've replaced the pressure
switch and light bulb on the dash. I don't know how to check the circuit. I
know it's one wire from front to back.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If anyone has a clue, or knows of anyone who had a clue that can
help, I'll mention you in my will!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I miss driving Myles and I'm envious of those I see driving their
"babies" around the area.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bob Pratt
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> type2 mailing list
>>>>>> type2 at type2.com
>>>>>> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
>>>>>
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