[T2] @&^%$$ oil leak still there after engine pull/install

[MUTS]

I just spoke to my rebuilder Jon Kleckner- he said just the 
opposite-must seat the seal fully- hers was only tapped flush by me. 
Jon did say the all orange seal can shrink; use the block/gray/orange 
one from Germany (Relin?).  Can Dr Tim weigh in?  Check youtube re vw 
seals- they seat them fully tapping on the old seal over the new or use 
a large socket edge to tap it in. This orange one came out easily with 
the "Bent Screwdriver" style of prybar. I went to BusDepot and got the 
Relin, but they were out of the oring for the flywheel- it was new and I 
am leaving it.

MUTS  = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver oboe, clarinet support
93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
78 VW Westfalia Camper

On 11/2/2016 11:16 PM, accessys at smart.net wrote:
>
> engine and transmission seals need to be flush with face of tran and
> engine not pushed in seating it fully will cause a leak.
>
> only thing I can think of at the momont
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Wed, 2 Nov 2016, MUTS wrote:
>
>> Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2016 22:47:25 -0400
>> From: MUTS <muts at verizon.net>
>> To: type2 at type2.com
>> Subject: [T2] @&^%$$ oil leak still there after engine pull/install
>>
>> A year ago I dropped daughter's 75 bus FI engine to replace a worn
>> clutch that was slipping.  flywheel seals were replaced.  After
>> install, there was an oil leak noticed after 6 mi of driving.  Too
>> busy to deal with it; about 2 weeks ago I dropped engine with trans
>> and did notice oil on throwout bearing (gets from seal down the
>> plastic tube) and replaced the transhaft seal.  A little puddle at the
>> bottom, but it sat nearly a year.  Changed the FI hose including
>> injector hoses.  Found why hard starting; cold start valve not
>> working; wire in harness near starter had worn through due to rubbing
>> of harness holder tab.  Pulled the clutch and all was dry; the big
>> seal looked clean and intact; I replaced the o ring in the flywheel,
>> and had a fun time trying to line up the trans mounts (had to pull
>> starter to see the bolts.) Got engine purring after 20 min of pumping
>> up the hydraulic lifters that had been installed after a rod
>> bearing/head work.  But 2 oil leaks were seen after warm up- trans oil
>> leaked out from near nose cone- I had cleaned the vent and topped up
>> oil.  I cleaned it up to see where it starts and ran the engine, but
>> leak stopped! A cup or so of oil leaked out- maybe from pressure of
>> frothing oil?  Checked level and finger feel shows maybe 1/2" low?
>> Very odd.
>>   The engine oil leak showed oil as high as the starter weeping from
>> the trans/engine junction, it seemed to froth out as if under
>> pressure? In 1/2 hr of running, I'd say less tha a a cup leaked out.
>> I dropped it today and pulled the clutch/flywheel, and clutch and
>> front of flywheel were clean, pulling off flywheel showed oil running
>> over the seal bottom as if really puddled behind it, and oil was on
>> wall and and  flywheel teeth.  I could easily push the orange seal
>> edge down to wipe the oil out- shouldn't that have a spring behind it
>> and be stiff?  Could this be a high oil pressure issue?   Shouldn't
>> pressure drop after warmup?  I thought of a crack, wiped case
>> carefully, but did not see anything. Aaargh, this is time wasting; I
>> gotta split firewood!
>> I will change the seals after ordering them.
>> --
>> MUTS  = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver oboe, clarinet support
>> 93 Chevy Roadtrek 210P
>> 78 VW Westfalia Camper
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