[T2] water injection
c.dreike c.dreike at verizon.netSat Oct 29 19:57:56 PDT 2016
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One more point is that I have no dizzy, as the FI system performs the spark generation by way of a coil pack as in modern FI engines. I have full control of the advance function and air/fuel ratio via data arrays. Chris On 10/29/2016 6:52 PM, Robert Mann wrote: > What carb do you have? > The best place to slap in the water is, as I theorise, just outside > the throttle butterfly. This is where a small hole takes vacuum (via > a nozzle at no predictable place on the carb body) for the dizzie. > Actually it doesn't matter as much in practice on our engines, because > they are wide open nearly all the time. > > Keep in touch > > R > > On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 2:08 PM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net > <mailto:c.dreike at verizon.net>> wrote: > > Robert, > I have read through your treatise on water injection and it seems > that I misunderstood where the injection should take place. I have > connected to a port on the throttle body which is below the butterfly. > Back to the drawing board. > > Regards. > Chris > 64DD Kamper Kit > > > > On 10/29/2016 3:45 PM, Robert Mann wrote: >> My article <http://www.kuratrading.com/HTMLArticles/writings.htm >> <http://www.kuratrading.com/HTMLArticles/writings.htm>> mentions >> the sizes of needle which, on different carbs, give a suitable >> feed-rate of water / i.e./ approx 5% of the fuel consumption. >> Quote: >> Often best is 0.71mm (22G) or 0.63mm (23G), >> but 0.8mm (21G) or 0.51mm (25G) is best for some motors. >> >> If I convert 0.012" correctly, it comes to 0.3mm which is if >> anything too small. I can't think where there would be a strong >> enough vacuum to suck thru that tiny restriction such a huge flow >> as you record. I suspect one of us (?both) has made a numerical >> error. Let us both check ... >> My 1600dp has the Brazilian Weber (30mm choke). The rubber >> joiner push-fit onto the nozzle which provides the vacuum to the >> distributor has a 0.61mm needle stabbed in from the high side. >> The rear L of the body provides a good spot for c. 3L of water. >> If like me you are in a jurisdiction requiring official safey >> inspections regularly, you may be required to slap a floor into >> that water compartment; if so, perspex is best. >> Sorry to hear your oxygen sensor was crippled. May it >> recover upon some more use? BTW AFAIK the use of that component >> was invented by my sometime U of Auckland colleague Dr Geo >> Blanshard, who reasoned it was all very well to inject what is >> computed from the airflow, the accelerator position, etc, but if >> you fail to check what then actually results from combustion you >> are in a sense working in the dark. I recall the sensor he >> slapped into the exhaust cost (c.1981) $200. If yours does not >> recover from its chilling experience, I trust the replacement >> will by today be much cheaper. >> >> Keep in touch >> >> Robt Mann >> 1973 1600dp Devon >> >> On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 4:55 AM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net >> <mailto:c.dreike at verizon.net>> wrote: >> >> Robert, >> I finally tried some water injection on my FI upright engine >> using your ideas. I need a smaller orifice to meter the >> water. I used one around .012". Sucked water like mad. About >> a pint in few minutes. Had to keep the engine reved up to >> prevent stalling. Ruined my wide band O2 sensor. I suppose a >> smaller amount of H2O would not do the damage. What size >> needle did you use in your water injection exeriments? >> >> Regards, >> Chris >> 64DD Kamper Kit >> _______________________________________________ >> type2 mailing list >> type2 at type2.com <mailto:type2 at type2.com> >> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo >> <https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo> >> >> > >
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