[T2] water injection

[Robert Mann]

You are totally digitized?!
I have far less experience with non-carb'd engines.  The few FI engines
I've slapped water into, I've put a much bigger needle than those mentioned
earlier into the narrowest place in the induction tract after the air
cleaner.  At least one, in some examples 2 needles  –  the stainless ones
typically used to take a pint of blood from a donor.

cheers

R

On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 3:57 PM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net> wrote:

> One more point is that I have no dizzy, as the FI system performs the
> spark generation by way of a coil pack as in modern FI engines. I have full
> control of the advance function and air/fuel ratio via data arrays.
>
> Chris
>
> On 10/29/2016 6:52 PM, Robert Mann wrote:
>
> What carb do you have?
> The best place to slap in the water is, as I theorise, just outside the
> throttle butterfly.  This is where a small hole takes vacuum (via a nozzle
> at no predictable place on the carb body) for the dizzie.
> Actually it doesn't matter as much in practice on our engines, because
> they are wide open nearly all the time.
>
> Keep in touch
>
> R
>
> On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 2:08 PM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Robert,
>> I have read through your treatise on water injection and it seems that I
>> misunderstood where the injection should take place. I have connected to a
>> port on the throttle body which is below the butterfly.
>> Back to the drawing board.
>>
>> Regards.
>> Chris
>> 64DD Kamper Kit
>>
>>
>>
>> On 10/29/2016 3:45 PM, Robert Mann wrote:
>>
>> My article <http://www.kuratrading.com/HTMLArticles/writings.htm> mentions
>> the sizes of needle which, on different carbs, give a suitable feed-rate of
>> water * i.e.*  approx 5% of the fuel consumption.
>>       Quote:
>>                     Often best is 0.71mm (22G) or 0.63mm (23G), but 0.8mm
>> (21G) or 0.51mm (25G) is best for some motors.
>>
>>      If I convert 0.012" correctly, it comes to 0.3mm which is if
>> anything too small.  I can't think where there would be a strong enough
>> vacuum to suck thru that tiny restriction such a huge flow as you record.
>> I suspect one of us (?both) has made a numerical error.  Let us both check
>>  ...
>>      My 1600dp has the Brazilian Weber (30mm choke).  The rubber joiner
>>  push-fit onto the nozzle which provides the vacuum to the distributor has
>> a 0.61mm needle stabbed in from the high side.  The rear L of the body
>> provides a good spot for c. 3L of water.  If like me you are in a
>> jurisdiction requiring official safey inspections regularly, you may be
>> required to slap a floor into that water compartment; if so, perspex is
>> best.
>>      Sorry to hear your oxygen sensor was crippled.  May it recover upon
>> some more use?  BTW AFAIK the use of that component was invented by my
>> sometime U of Auckland colleague Dr Geo Blanshard, who reasoned it was all
>> very well to inject what is computed from the airflow, the accelerator
>> position, etc, but if you fail to check what then actually results from
>> combustion you are in a sense working in the dark.  I recall the sensor he
>> slapped into the exhaust cost (c.1981) $200.  If yours does not recover
>> from its chilling experience, I trust the replacement will by today be much
>> cheaper.
>>
>> Keep in touch
>>
>> Robt Mann
>> 1973 1600dp Devon
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 4:55 AM, c.dreike <c.dreike at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Robert,
>>> I finally tried some water injection on my FI upright engine using your
>>> ideas. I need a smaller orifice to meter the water. I used one around
>>> .012". Sucked water like mad. About a pint in few minutes. Had to keep the
>>> engine reved up to prevent stalling.  Ruined my wide band O2 sensor. I
>>> suppose a smaller amount of H2O would not do the damage. What size needle
>>> did you use in your water injection exeriments?
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Chris
>>> 64DD Kamper Kit
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>