[T2] Kevin's Horn. Re: type2 Digest, Vol 55, Issue 5
Patrick Ludvig patrickludvig at gmail.comWed Dec 6 09:49:26 PST 2017
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Hey Kevin, I have a '78 CEII and had the same broken wire and same intermittent horn action. For the contact in the steering wheel that contacts the horn button, I ended up using copper tape maybe one eighth of an inch across. I'm pretty sure you can find the stuff on Amazon. I first tried to bend the contact up slightly in the hump or the middle so that it would make better contact but that didn't seem to work but wrapping it in a very small amount of copper tape worked a treat. If you go this route, make sure the copper tape you buy has electrical properties, as in, it can pass an electrical current. Good luck to you. When I eventually tackle my heat (not really needed in S. FL) I'm going to look back on your descriptions and successes for guidance. -Patrick On Dec 5, 2017 3:00 PM, <type2-request at type2.com> wrote: Send type2 mailing list submissions to type2 at type2.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to type2-request at type2.com You can reach the person managing the list at type2-owner at type2.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of type2 digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Heater controls? (Kevin Guarnotta) 2. Horn Troubleshooting (Kevin Guarnotta) 3. Re: Heater controls? (Al Brase) 4. Re: Horn TRoubleshooting (Kevin Guarnotta) 5. Re: Heater controls? (Kevin Guarnotta) 6. Re: Heater controls? (Al Brase) 7. Re: Horn TRoubleshooting (Al Brase) 8. Re: Heater controls? (c.dreike) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2017 21:48:12 +0000 From: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> To: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: Re: [T2] Heater controls? Message-ID: <BN3PR0401MB150903D26E2F106C5FCDCD85B93C0 at BN3PR0401MB1509. namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In for a penny in for a pound...here is an update: I started going through the duct work in the back of the bus. At the booster fan - removed these ducts - great airflow through here. Shoved my vacuum through where ducts go into engine tin to see if anything came up -but all seemed clear. Next stop heater control flap boxes. The driver side heater cable appeared to be adjusted as tight as possible - i.e. the end of the cable was pulled as far through the barrel nut as possible. The other side looked like I could possibly adjust a little bit. Maybe 1/8". But I figured I should give it a try. Of course the bolt snapped when removing. That was fun trying to drill out. Hopefully I have an extra barrel nut clamp thing in my part stash. Found one. I ended up removing the top of the heater box - I think this is called the heater box control flap - I decided to do this on both sides while at it. This took a bit of work, but figured it was a good time to take it apart, address any leaks, put some anti-seize on this stuff, throw some paint on any rusty parts. Everything was relatively solid - but some surface rust. On the passenger side the seal was the original asbestos seal, on the passenger side it was replaced with an orange silicone boot. Both in good shape - but while I've got this apart, I think I'll replace that asbestos seal. The PO gave me a box of parts - and I found a grey version of the orange seal. Part number 111-819-945, or 819-945-73 74. This is going to go on - now what to do with old asbestos seal? I've done a quick cleanup of these boxes, and some master series silver primer, and black chassis undercoat. I've checked airflow at forward end of heater box - and it feels pretty good. Not as strong as at booster fan, but there must be some loss right? Ok - just waiting for paint to dry on heat control flapper boxes, then I'll re-assemble and see what I get for air flow at each junction. Thanks for listening, and for all your tips. -Kevin Guarnotta Jamaica Plain, MA '78 Westy '69 Singlecab '65 Ez-camper ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2017 23:06:47 +0000 From: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> To: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: [T2] Horn Troubleshooting Message-ID: <BN3PR0401MB1509F1775E79121184D1CE44B93C0 at BN3PR0401MB1509. namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ok - while waiting for paint to dry on the heater box flaps - I figure I might as well address a horn issue. My horn worked intermittently for a week or so before I started addressing all these other issues. I looked underneath, and saw a short ground wire at base of steering column. This wire was broken. I just replaced wire - underneath the bus, I used the same bolt, above the floor I used the bolt that is 180 degrees from the original bolt that was used, as it was a lot easier to get to. I put some anti-seize on the bolts when I put the thing back together. As far as bolts - I'm referring to the 4 bolts at the base of the steering column that go through the steering coupler. I picked two bolts next to each other. Horn not working. I checked wire under button on steering wheel - it is in good shape. If I ground the horn directly (is put a short wire between horn ground and touch the body, I get a honk). Which connection is messed up? Thanks for any guidance. -Kevin Guarnotta Jamaica Plain, MA '78 Westy '69 Singlecab '65 Ez-camper ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2017 17:11:28 -0600 From: Al Brase <alribee at gmail.com> To: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> Cc: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: Re: [T2] Heater controls? Message-ID: <CAJqVC2ASOq=5E6BJytSuAFvFq18nHpmpJScbGOt3f=7pBjZHnA at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Asbestos is not such a big deal to dispose of. Always handle it wet so the dust does not become airborne. Soak it with a garden sprayer or spray bottle and water and dish soap. Seal it in a baggie and put in the land fill. If you have a truckload (like roofing tiles) the landfill here would take it but put it in a separate place. This might not be the law, but for small amounts, my advice is protect yourself and your household. On Mon, Dec 4, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> wrote: > In for a penny in for a pound...here is an update: > > I started going through the duct work in the back of the bus. At the > booster fan - removed these ducts - great airflow through here. Shoved my > vacuum through where ducts go into engine tin to see if anything came up > -but all seemed clear. > > Next stop heater control flap boxes. The driver side heater cable appeared > to be adjusted as tight as possible - i.e. the end of the cable was pulled > as far through the barrel nut as possible. The other side looked like I > could possibly adjust a little bit. Maybe 1/8". But I figured I should give > it a try. Of course the bolt snapped when removing. That was fun trying to > drill out. Hopefully I have an extra barrel nut clamp thing in my part > stash. Found one. > > I ended up removing the top of the heater box - I think this is called the > heater box control flap - I decided to do this on both sides while at it. > This took a bit of work, but figured it was a good time to take it apart, > address any leaks, put some anti-seize on this stuff, throw some paint on > any rusty parts. Everything was relatively solid - but some surface rust. > > On the passenger side the seal was the original asbestos seal, on the > passenger side it was replaced with an orange silicone boot. Both in good > shape - but while I've got this apart, I think I'll replace that asbestos > seal. The PO gave me a box of parts - and I found a grey version of the > orange seal. Part number 111-819-945, or 819-945-73 74. This is going to > go on - now what to do with old asbestos seal? > > I've done a quick cleanup of these boxes, and some master series silver > primer, and black chassis undercoat. > > I've checked airflow at forward end of heater box - and it feels pretty > good. Not as strong as at booster fan, but there must be some loss right? > > Ok - just waiting for paint to dry on heat control flapper boxes, then > I'll re-assemble and see what I get for air flow at each junction. > > Thanks for listening, and for all your tips. > > -Kevin Guarnotta > Jamaica Plain, MA > > '78 Westy > '69 Singlecab > '65 Ez-camper > > > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2017 03:45:53 +0000 From: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> To: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: Re: [T2] Horn TRoubleshooting Message-ID: <BN3PR0401MB1509DB7948D06D004A399877B93D0 at BN3PR0401MB1509. namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just took for a test drive - horn works intermittently, I think related to where steering wheel is. I think there is a contact point under steering wheel - this could be worn out, or dirty, or turnsignal needs to be adjusted closer to steering wheel. I'm calling it quits for today. Will be doing clean up tomorrow...and will post updates. -Kevin Guarnotta Jamaica Plain, MA '78 Westy '69 Singlecab '65 Ez-camper ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2017 03:45:54 +0000 From: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> To: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: Re: [T2] Heater controls? Message-ID: <BN3PR0401MB150918658D831FD2A832C22EB93D0 at BN3PR0401MB1509. namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Last update before calling it quits tonight... Got all heater box flaps reinstalled. Driver side heater cable was TOO long, that was one of the problems. I had to cut the end of the wire, and put the clamp on the wire instead of the thick piece at the end of the wire. Passenger side was probably ok before, but I've tightened it up a bit. Now all cables/lever work properly. I get heat in the right spots with the right amount of power. Although I think it would be nicer if the booster fan were quieter and also more powerful...;) I think I can take it for a bit more driving around tomorrow, and maybe even a road trip to NH on Wednesday...depending on how tomorrow goes, and weather reports for NH. If they are getting any snow, I'll leave it here in Boston. Thanks for your help in troubleshooting...I'll keep you posted on how it all goes. I think I'll get in in shape just in time to put it away for the winter ;) -Kevin Guarnotta Jamaica Plain, MA '78 Westy '69 Singlecab '65 Ez-camper ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2017 21:58:23 -0600 From: Al Brase <alribee at gmail.com> To: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> Cc: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: Re: [T2] Heater controls? Message-ID: <CAJqVC2BdnNn5JgZJFJZ7SX3U7Sc03TczqywHd-Op6+V7DWo5tw at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Did you get the one-way flaps on the engine fan housing and also on the booster fan? The engine fan will over run the booster fan at highway speeds, so you could just get by without it, but it is only actuated by full right setting on the temp lever. On Mon, Dec 4, 2017 at 9:45 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> wrote: > Last update before calling it quits tonight... > > Got all heater box flaps reinstalled. Driver side heater cable was TOO > long, that was one of the problems. I had to cut the end of the wire, and > put the clamp on the wire instead of the thick piece at the end of the > wire. Passenger side was probably ok before, but I've tightened it up a bit. > > Now all cables/lever work properly. I get heat in the right spots with the > right amount of power. Although I think it would be nicer if the booster > fan were quieter and also more powerful...;) > > I think I can take it for a bit more driving around tomorrow, and maybe > even a road trip to NH on Wednesday...depending on how tomorrow goes, and > weather reports for NH. If they are getting any snow, I'll leave it here in > Boston. Thanks for your help in troubleshooting...I'll keep you posted on > how it all goes. I think I'll get in in shape just in time to put it away > for the winter ;) > > -Kevin Guarnotta > Jamaica Plain, MA > > '78 Westy > '69 Singlecab > '65 Ez-camper > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2017 22:02:57 -0600 From: Al Brase <alribee at gmail.com> To: Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> Cc: type 2 <type2 at type2.com> Subject: Re: [T2] Horn TRoubleshooting Message-ID: <CAJqVC2Bdx_D6JDkB1kAbYLeiEHKQ5OKdabScXCDRHdMEO6uy5w at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Both things happen. Usually the brass wiper has worn thru in 100k miles. or it is not sitting close enough. On Mon, Dec 4, 2017 at 9:45 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> wrote: > Just took for a test drive - horn works intermittently, I think related to > where steering wheel is. I think there is a contact point under steering > wheel - this could be worn out, or dirty, or turnsignal needs to be > adjusted closer to steering wheel. > > I'm calling it quits for today. Will be doing clean up tomorrow...and will > post updates. > > -Kevin Guarnotta > Jamaica Plain, MA > > '78 Westy > '69 Singlecab > '65 Ez-camper > > > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2017 20:15:39 -0800 From: "c.dreike" <c.dreike at verizon.net> To: type2 at type2.com Subject: Re: [T2] Heater controls? Message-ID: <c6aab475-df69-c973-7078-c2d5641e860a at verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Call Tim Taylor to find out how to boost that blower power. Maybe rewind the motor. As for the horn, I think you are on the right track. I saw a weather report for the NE this evening. Looks like its cooling down for the winter. Cheers, Chris On 12/4/2017 7:45 PM, Kevin Guarnotta wrote: > Last update before calling it quits tonight... > > Got all heater box flaps reinstalled. Driver side heater cable was TOO long, that was one of the problems. I had to cut the end of the wire, and put the clamp on the wire instead of the thick piece at the end of the wire. Passenger side was probably ok before, but I've tightened it up a bit. > > Now all cables/lever work properly. I get heat in the right spots with the right amount of power. Although I think it would be nicer if the booster fan were quieter and also more powerful...;) > > I think I can take it for a bit more driving around tomorrow, and maybe even a road trip to NH on Wednesday...depending on how tomorrow goes, and weather reports for NH. If they are getting any snow, I'll leave it here in Boston. Thanks for your help in troubleshooting...I'll keep you posted on how it all goes. I think I'll get in in shape just in time to put it away for the winter ;) > > -Kevin Guarnotta > Jamaica Plain, MA > > '78 Westy > '69 Singlecab > '65 Ez-camper > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ type2 mailing list type2 at type2.com https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo ------------------------------ End of type2 Digest, Vol 55, Issue 5 ************************************
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