[T2] 2nd Gear Problems
Dan Bessom grtfldan at gmail.comThu Nov 2 15:44:39 PDT 2017
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You donât need to pull the engine. 1 bolt 1 square bolt. Dan Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 2, 2017, at 5:51 PM, Erik Burtis <ewdb92 at gmail.com> wrote: > > Last I heard, you should use the original cage or add spot welds to the > base of the collar where the shift rod is connected. > Erik > > On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 5:42 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <kevin at guarnottadesign.com> > wrote: > >> OK, I have taken a bit more apart - it appears as though I am missing the >> rear bushing for the rear shift rod piece. It doesn't look like this can be >> replaced without pulling the engine & transmission? Am I missing something, >> or is it possible to replace without removing the engine and trans? If so - >> I may leave it as is. >> >> As for the shift coupler - I see I can get a kit - or just the bushings. >> Not a big deal with price - but should I use the original 'cage' piece. Are >> the new cages poorly made? >> >> I also found part number 211 711 115A. This appears to be some sort of >> cover for behind the cage. After some online research - appears to be >> referred to as the nose cone dust boot. My original is there, but it is >> split down the length. I can't seem to find a replacement in the US- so >> maybe I should just put some RTV on this to join it back together? >> Otherwise I need to order from Europe, which seems crazy. I'll get this >> going eventually. >> >> Seems crazy that to replace a simple bushing you need to remove the engine. >> >> -Kevin Guarnotta >> Jamaica Plain, MA >> >> '78 Westy >> '69 Singlecab >> '65 Ez-camper >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> type2 mailing list >> type2 at type2.com >> https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > type2 mailing list > type2 at type2.com > https://www.type2.com/lists/type2/listinfo
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