[T2] 2nd Gear Problems

[Al Brase]

My previous post was ONLY if not removing engine.
For sure, if the tranny is out, try to split the coupler and put new rear
shift shaft bushings in it.
Something else I would look at: From Vanagon experience 091's, but
hydraulic actuation, the clutch forks often have uneven wear where they
contact the TO bearing.
This seems to be the single worst source of clutch chatter. They are
manufactured curved, but wear to some funky flattened areas. I dress with a
grinder. Measure with a caliper.

On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 11:53 PM, Andy McKinley <airhedz at gmail.com> wrote:

> If you're going to pull the drive train, do all the bushings.
>
> Bus Depot has a kit with all the bushings (211711211). Later models use two
> of the shuttlecock looking bushings (211711185B), so order another one.
> These parts are pretty inexpensive.
>
> And yes, the trans and engine must come out to do this job. I'm prepping to
> do this for the third time in 27 years.
>
> You might also check all of your mounts (211599431, front transmission
> carrier mount, 021199231CMY, motor mount, and 021119245B, dipstick tube
> boot). All these are much easier to replace when pulling the engine/trans.
>
> I'm also doing a complete clutch overhaul, so I'm going with new clutch
> disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, and throwout
> bearing. I also have on hand a good used flywheel and throwout bearing fork
> just in case. Oh, and a complete transmission. I have way too many spare
> parts.
>
> Andy
> airhedz at gmail.com
> 1979 Cali sunroof Kombi,
> Busaurus
>
> On Nov 2, 2017 7:13 PM, "Erik Burtis" <ewdb92 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > You need to pull the engine/trans to pull the shift rod out.  You only
> need
> > to pull the rod to replace the rear shift rod bushings (not the cage)
> #21
> > and 24 (for a 78) in this diagram.
> >
> > https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/chassis/bus_
> chassis.cfm?type=2
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 8:58 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <
> kevin at guarnottadesign.com
> > >
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I see I don't need to pull the engine to replace the shift coupler, but
> > > after pulling the shift coupler from the rear of the rear shift rod,
> and
> > > the coupler from the front of the shift rod - how do you get the shift
> > rod
> > > out?  Don't I need to take the shift rod out - to install the bushings
> on
> > > either end?
> > > The shift rod appears to be one piece, with a curved end, going
> through a
> > > tube. The curved end is in the rear, and so I think I would need to
> pull
> > > the rod out from that side -but the transmission is there?
> > >
> > > -Kevin Guarnotta
> > > Jamaica Plain, MA
> > >
> > > ’78 Westy
> > > '69 Singlecab
> > > '65 Ez-camper
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Dan Bessom [mailto:grtfldan at gmail.com]
> > > Subject: Re: [T2] 2nd Gear Problems
> > >
> > > You don’t need to pull the engine. 1 bolt 1 square bolt.
> > > Dan
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >
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