[T2] 2nd Gear Problems

[Andy McKinley]

Thanks for the tip, Al. That's one of the issues I am addressing.

On Nov 2, 2017 10:00 PM, "Al Brase" <alribee at gmail.com> wrote:

> My previous post was ONLY if not removing engine.
> For sure, if the tranny is out, try to split the coupler and put new rear
> shift shaft bushings in it.
> Something else I would look at: From Vanagon experience 091's, but
> hydraulic actuation, the clutch forks often have uneven wear where they
> contact the TO bearing.
> This seems to be the single worst source of clutch chatter. They are
> manufactured curved, but wear to some funky flattened areas. I dress with a
> grinder. Measure with a caliper.
>
> On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 11:53 PM, Andy McKinley <airhedz at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> If you're going to pull the drive train, do all the bushings.
>>
>> Bus Depot has a kit with all the bushings (211711211). Later models use
>> two
>> of the shuttlecock looking bushings (211711185B), so order another one.
>> These parts are pretty inexpensive.
>>
>> And yes, the trans and engine must come out to do this job. I'm prepping
>> to
>> do this for the third time in 27 years.
>>
>> You might also check all of your mounts (211599431, front transmission
>> carrier mount, 021199231CMY, motor mount, and 021119245B, dipstick tube
>> boot). All these are much easier to replace when pulling the engine/trans.
>>
>> I'm also doing a complete clutch overhaul, so I'm going with new clutch
>> disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, and throwout
>> bearing. I also have on hand a good used flywheel and throwout bearing
>> fork
>> just in case. Oh, and a complete transmission. I have way too many spare
>> parts.
>>
>> Andy
>> airhedz at gmail.com
>> 1979 Cali sunroof Kombi,
>> Busaurus
>>
>> On Nov 2, 2017 7:13 PM, "Erik Burtis" <ewdb92 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > You need to pull the engine/trans to pull the shift rod out.  You only
>> need
>> > to pull the rod to replace the rear shift rod bushings (not the cage)
>> #21
>> > and 24 (for a 78) in this diagram.
>> >
>> > https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/chassis/bus_chas
>> sis.cfm?type=2
>> >
>> > On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 8:58 PM, Kevin Guarnotta <
>> kevin at guarnottadesign.com
>> > >
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > > I see I don't need to pull the engine to replace the shift coupler,
>> but
>> > > after pulling the shift coupler from the rear of the rear shift rod,
>> and
>> > > the coupler from the front of the shift rod - how do you get the shift
>> > rod
>> > > out?  Don't I need to take the shift rod out - to install the
>> bushings on
>> > > either end?
>> > > The shift rod appears to be one piece, with a curved end, going
>> through a
>> > > tube. The curved end is in the rear, and so I think I would need to
>> pull
>> > > the rod out from that side -but the transmission is there?
>> > >
>> > > -Kevin Guarnotta
>> > > Jamaica Plain, MA
>> > >
>> > > ’78 Westy
>> > > '69 Singlecab
>> > > '65 Ez-camper
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > -----Original Message-----
>> > > From: Dan Bessom [mailto:grtfldan at gmail.com]
>> > > Subject: Re: [T2] 2nd Gear Problems
>> > >
>> > > You don’t need to pull the engine. 1 bolt 1 square bolt.
>> > > Dan
>> > >
>> > > Sent from my iPhone
>> > >
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