[T2] [VB] Hot engine

[Chris Dreike]

To answer David's questions:
It is a 1964 split bus
Rear tires are 205-75-R15, Radius is: 12.5 inches from the center of the
nut to the ground
This is a big nut with reduction gears. 3.88 r&p freeway flier.
RPM at 65mph is approximately 3350, as measured by the fuel injection
computer.
Porsche pulley on the alternator to make up for the freeway flier.
Crank pulley is stock size from Scat with degree markings.

Engine is 1776, 69mm counterbalanced crank and 90.5 jugs
Exhaust is a vintage speed. heater boxes installed.
Ignition is full electronic controlled by a Megasquirt ECU
Fuel injection using mexi-bug stock throttle body and intake manifold
Oil pump I believe to be stock size
Full flow oil filter system
Sorry I don't have exact oil pressure data numbers, however I did check
that it is high when cold Maybe 60 psi and drops to 5-10 psi when warmed up
to running temp.

Cooling is a doghouse with wide fan, stock oil cooler plus a small external
cooler from Emp plumbed in after the filter and located under the floor,
not in the engine compartment.
Complete tinwork is installed with all rubber seals in good condition. Most
likely have a hoover bit installed as I assembled the tinworks.
The thermostat and vanes are not installed.

I expect that the engine was running hot even when I had a progressive carb
on it as it was frying the oil even back then.
And it has been hot as long as I have been running the fuel injection and I
know this because I installed cylinder head temp sensors on 1 & 3 Sensors
are in rings on the spark plugs.
The heads get hot running down the freeway as soon as I'm going up a slight
incline. they can rapidly rise to 380 and keep on going if I let it which I
did once and hit 400.
The temp quickly drops again when going down even a slight incline to
around 330 or less.
Around town the temp is running around 280-300..

The spark plugs are clean as a whistle. No carbon. No melting, just white
and grey powdery looking stuff
The valves take minimal adjustment when I check. Sometimes too loose and
others times just a hair tight. As I have CrMo push rods, I adjust to .002.
Engine bullder told me to adjust at zero .
Down shifting from 4 to 3 while going up hill does not cool things off
unless I slow way down. As the engine is well balanced, I can run 50 in 3rd
about 3900 rpm,
I filled up with 91 octane on some advice, that made no change.
At WOT the a/f ratio is about 12.5:1 per my gauge and the advance is at 28
degrees. And the head temp just goes up.

Jake Raby indicates that even under load the heads should not be much
hotter than 340 and if the heads hit 400 that is much too hot and if they
hit 425, get new heads.

Hope I got it all here.
Thanks in Advance.

Chris
64 DD Kamper Kit
71 Sunroof